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Sunday 23 December 2012

Simpsons-in-the-Strand, 100 Strand, London WC2R 0EW


Simpsons-in-the-Strand, 100 Strand, London WC2R 0EW
23/12/2012

She said: This British eatery and part of The Savoy Hotel, has been around for over 170 years. Originally a chess and coffee house, the ‘Grand Divan’ dining room serves as a trip back in time with oak panelled walls, chandeliers, high, stuccoed ceilings and a piano playing American classics (although the depressing song from ‘Les Parapluies de Cherbourg’ was playing when we were seated). Waiters are dressed in ‘proper’ waiting attire and tables are laid exquisitely. Cheekily I discovered after that there is a set menu but you need to know to ask for this…So we chose off the a la carte. I opted for an Ocean Trout with came with a lobster sauce on lobster mash; the side of spinach I ordered was a good accompaniment. As we did not order starters we were given an amuse bouche which was a nice touch. My trout was soft and juicy and the sauce complimented it perfectly. I created some room in my stomach for pudding and opted for the chocolate mousse with stewed cherries. This pudding was delicious – high quality chocolate all the way through with bitter-sweet cherries that offset the chocolate taste perfectly. Alongside I had a piping hot latte – just the way I like it, which also came with a plate of various biscuits. Simpsons-in-the-Strand is an institution that I recommend making time for. With pre-theatre menus also on offer there’s plenty of variety in choice and price and it serves as a timeless escape from the chaos of London.

He said: Hands up if, like me, you occasionally get bored by the endless striving for novelty and the Sisyphean race to win the gold medal in `Cool’. Simpsons is the perfect antidote. For the past fifteen years I’ve lived in London just the name was a turn off, enough to quicken my step walking past countless times without ever looking in. What a mistake! The fact that it has barely changed in the 100+ years it’s been opened is exactly what’s so appealing, so comforting about this place. The room is cathedral-like, vast, double-height, wood-panelled, deep upholstered booths line both sides, chefs criss-cross it pushing roast trolleys about, waiters uniformed in various styles based on seniority, etc. The food is pure comfort, the only concession to tradition made for vegetarians (stuffed Romano pepper with courgette flowers). You are guaranteed to get echoes of Jeeves and Wooster, and all sorts of connotations of England of Yore. On a Sunday the piano player is in the corner bashing out all the guilty pleasures. It’s just wonderful. As you’d expect there are a lot of older gentlemen wearing club ties, but on a second visit I happily saw that the booth next to ours was filled by Bright Young Things. Even if, as perhaps they did, you go to indulge some knowing irony, you will walk out delighted by the tradition. A bit like watching Kate and Wills get married on the telly.