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Saturday 7 April 2012

York and Albany, 127-129 Parkway, London NW1 7PS

York and Albany, 127-129 Parkway, London NW1 7PS
6/4/12
http://www.gordonramsay.com/yorkandalbany

She said... Perched on a corner before the lovely Regent's Park, York and Albany is a gastro pub belonging to the Ramsay empire, so it was fair to expect a certain quality of cooking. Arriving at the unassuming facade around lunchtime via the cafe entrance, there was a lovely country feel with stone flooring and fresh breads on display. As we wondered into the pub again we were pleasantly surprised by a bright and open contemporary space which led into a smart dining room with a large skylight. On arrival there was just one couple already seated so when the waiter went to seat us right next to them and my husband noticed a baby's high chair ready to receive a screaming child next to where we were being seated we asked to move; at first we were told the rest of the empty restaurant was reserved but then he swapped us with a table that had not yet arrived. Service was 'relaxed' but then turned into absent with my husband having to get up every time we needed a waiter (or our food). We had to ask for the set menu which I had found out about online (only a la carte was given to customers suggesting the £18 set menu deal was being kept a secret). The starters got us excited about what was to come - I had perfectly cooked fishcakes with a fennel salad - just right. But disaster struck when I ordered the tagliatelle with mushrooms - the pasta was overcooked and drowning in a slop-like sauce. My heart sank - we skipped dessert. A restaurant with the Ramsay brand behind it should surely be able to cook pasta and not expect customers to have to jump up and find a waiter when they want to order or receive their food within a decent time. Won't be going back to this one.

He said... The time finally came to give this place a shot, having driven passed it countless times on the way through North London and wondered just as many times why anyone would open a restaurant in the middle of what is basically a traffic circle. Truth is the location makes a lot of sense when you consider that it's basically one bread roll's throw away from Regent's Park and a bunch of very expensive houses. Walking through the doors Y&A certainly makes a good first impression, especially if, as we did, you come in through the retail annexe where the pizza oven is roaring away. We settled-in fast, scanned a well-formed menu with something for everybody, from fussy rug-rats who will open their loveable gobs only for pizza and burgers, to dads used to work paying for lunch,  via unrepentant veggies. Ordering was a challenge, with waiters nowhere to be found, but when my starter arrived it really set the tone -- a mildly curried parsnip soup with a perfect onion bhaji on the side. I was really psyched for the rest and thought -- wow, maybe we hit paydirt here. Main was salmon on shredded celeriac, with some swiss chard or maybe it was spinach. It was meant to come with samphire, but judging by the three strands on evidence on my plate the harvest must have been apocalyptic. This dish was ok; I thought the pickling of the celeriac overpowered it, but it was alright. Wifey's pasta being overdone was totally ridiculous for a Ramsay joint, but my main gripe with the place was the service which was way too slack. Having said all that, I might go back - it is convenient, and could be really good, but I'll hit the less formal side near the bar which is a nicer room, and has more of a vibe.

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