34 Grosvenor Square, London W1K 2UD

34 Grosvenor Square, London W1K 2UD
28/07/2012
http://www.34-restaurant.co.uk/

She said: 34 is a restaurant you make time for.  It’s easy to walk past the entrance on South Audley Street but that would be a mistake because as you enter you will find a sophisticated, inviting space of a bygone era. I may be laying it on thick but this is a classic, luxury market eatery with excellent service and food (and prices) to match. It’s somewhere you’ll want to take your time, people watch and savour and takes you into a different world removed from the hustle of nearby Oxford Street and Park Lane. I started with a watermelon and goats cheese salad with honeyed walnuts with was full of flavour and a perfect warm up. For mains I had a perfectly creamy risotto which melted in the mouth. I made way for desert and opted for the chocolate bombe which looked amazing but I actually preferred his peanut crunch (snickers-like pudding) as the chocolate bombe was a case of design over substance for me, with a tasty chocolate shell but a mish-mash of popping candy and ice cream inside. I like my chocolate puddings to have more chocolate. But putting desert aside, I would come back to 34 – especially for a special occasion or if someone else is paying (£106 for two).

He said: 34 is just what you expect of a Mayfair grill: it's well-appointed, efficient, and expensive. The clientele is also representative of the well-heeled, truly cosmopolitan denizen of the neighbourhood, which makes for good people watching. From my point of view it was fine; there was nothing to dislike, but there was also nothing to love - it is just another decent restaurant. Being vegetarian I'm sure that I missed out on 34's USP - amazing grilled meats, and this must be what you might just love about it. It won't be the room which, being long and narrow, is somewhat unmemorable. But what I ate, a cold soup of various green veg, tortellini, and a desert which tasted like a really great, posh Snickers bar, was all really well accomplished, and really nicely plated. But throw in a cocktail each, and the bill for lunch for two tops the £100 mark. There are so many amazing restaurants in London in this price bracket; I just don't think 34 delivers enough to stand up to them. I guess the rent is high in that neighbourhood... It must be why the management feels compelled to charge for cover; a practice which, this day and age, is barely forgivable even in a Spanish beach resort. Do leave a comment if you've tried the grill and it's out of this world, as some say.

Mari Vanna, 116 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7PJ

Mari Vanna, 116 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7PJ

29/05/2012
http://www.marivanna.co.uk/

She said…To celebrate his recent success in a Russian related project at work, we decided a Russian meal was in order and headed to Mari Vanna. Set in a Knightsbridge classic townhouse building, I loved the fancy grandma’s living room feel of the dining room. Heavy on lace and stuffed with Russian ornaments, jars of Mari Vanna produce and crockery with sparkling chandeliers and cheesy Russian music this place couldn’t help but charm me. On sitting down we were given a complimentary plate of delicious breads, dips and savoury snacks which could have been a meal in themselves. Given the occasion we didn’t want to be modest in our ordering but probably should have reviewed the number of dishes we chose when the waiter visibly took a sharp intake of breath as he finished writing down our order. Nevertheless, the starter pirozhok with seabass – which was a sort of seafood pasty, was tasty, and the beetroot salad was sweet and compulsive eating. To follow I had to order the salmon blinis; until now I thought this involved tiny little canapé-like pancakes with a bit of salmon on  - but not at Mari Vanna. Three, beautifully thin, large pancakes came alongside a plate filled with delicious salmon, accompanied by pots of chopped onion, sour cream and grated egg which I proceeded to make into a roll and thoroughly enjoy but quickly realising I was full (despite him having half) and the mains were still to come. A huge plate of pelmeni filled with seafood arrived which was similar to tortellini. It was delicious but as his main arrived at the same time we knew there was no way we were getting through the mains. I stuffed more of these fish-filled pasta shapes into my mouth than I had room for but it was worth it. The total bill for two came to £100 including two glasses of Prosecco which is on the high side but we could and should have ordered half the amount and still have been full. Mari Vana is a relaxed, smart and kitschy dining space with great service and an extensive menu, with excellent choice of Russian dishes. Prices might be on the high side but more canny ordering will make a difference – and in our case would have allowed room for dessert which looked good but I didn’t want to risk being unable to stand if I had tried to get any Russian pastries into my mouth after our eating marathon.

He Said… Quick: what do you think of when you hear ‘Russian Food’? Right, babushkas dishing out stodgy slop in a concrete bunker. This is the stereotype that Mari Vanna is up against, yet it still manages to impress. The atmosphere is wealthy pre-revolutionary dacha: a bike and pictures of granny hung on the walls, chintzy everything everywhere – the kind of cosiness that very few Russians would remember, but many might actually long for. But don’t be fooled by the lo-fi vibe: Mari Vanna is sited almost right next door to One Hyde Park  - the most expensive residential block in London, and therefore the world; the rent ain’t cheap, and neither will your meal. But the staff makes parting with your money so pleasant that you almost don’t mind. Anyone who’s ever been to Russia will find this kind of pleasant service totally alien. And sure enough our waiter was French, as I found out when I tried to order in Russian (her condition for us booking the place). But the manager was definitely Russian, and definitely friendly when showing me around the rest of the place. The menu is extensive and covers all the classics pelmeni, vareniki, blini, etc., all of it familiar but prepared with finesse – like a cutely painted Trojan horse delivering you the many thousands of calories needed to fight the long Russian winters. If you go, then remember that the food is meant for sharing. The portions were authentically large, which I didn’t expect in this part of town; had I known then lunch for two (including prosecco) would have cost £70 instead of £100 (ouch!). Not a give away, but I’d go back: it’s the kind of food and experience that you can’t get in many places in London.

Pollen Street Social, 8 Pollen Street, London W1S 1NQ

Pollen Street Social, 8 Pollen Street, London W1S 1NQ
19/05/2012

http://www.pollenstreetsocial.com/

She said…We found ourselves hungry for lunch in Mayfair after visiting a gallery and remembered that we wanted to try the Pollen Street Social. After glancing at the menu at the entrance I wanted to go somewhere else (mains start at £26) but then he noticed the set price menu of three courses for £25 so we went in. After you wander through a smaller room where the bar is located you enter a beautiful, fine dining room with soft leather banquettes, white table cloths, bulbous lighting and a sense of calm. We were one of the first to be seated for lunch and were presented with the a la carte, a special vegetarian menu and the fixed price menu. After we ordered, we were brought fresh, warm breads and an amuse bouche which consisted of delicious green olives and some sort of cod-based buttery spread which was compulsive. For my starter I chose an asparagus salad with tomatoes in a warm tomato juice; when it arrived I didn’t know whether to eat it or frame it – the presentation was stunning with edible flowers and the salad presented as a work of art. It tasted fantastic. For my main course I ordered cod which came with a caper sauce, smooth mash and some thick honey which combined perfectly again satisfying with every spoon. We were then invited to the ‘desert bar’; which involved sitting at a bar where we could watch the various restaurant deserts being prepared. Even though we had gone for the cheaper set menu option we were given a palate cleanser of passion fruit and lime ice cream, followed by a pineapple granita. At first I thought they hadn’t realised we were the set menu folk but then they took our order and I had the most beautifully presented chocolate pave in an orange sauce which again was perfect, accompanied by a big pot of tea. Complimentary warm, mini sponge cakes filled with some sort of honey or toffee came with the bill and despite being completely full, I enjoyed every mouthful. Pollen Street Social is a wonderful place. The food, setting and service all came together to deliver a great dining experience. The glass kitchen was fun to look into and see the army of staff at work. I would only say that next time I would stay at our dining table for the deserts. The bar was fun to watch but much busier and less comfortable than the laid back dining area.

He said… Wow. This place is really, really good. There had been so much buzz about it that, I confess, I had mixed feelings about going; yes, I’m that kind of guy, who goes right if someone says left. We ate here on a whim: no booking, no prep; just happened to be walking past, hungry, and (me, at least) looking pretty shabby. The hostess didn’t even blink at my t-shirt and flip flops, and took us straight to a good table (away from traffic/toilet) in a bright, quietly opulent but laid-back room. I remember this joint when it was a pub; they’ve thrown a lot of money at it, that’s for sure. Not that you would know it by the bill; Pollen Street Social turns out to be remarkably good value (lunch came out at about £35 each). Plenty has been written about the food here, so I’m not going to add my drop to that ocean of ink. It’s all true: it is very, very good. Very thoughtful combination of flavours, the freshest, seasonal ingredients, presented really well. What was really memorable for me was the generosity of this place; not necessarily the portion size (the food here is about flavour rather than fill-up) but the complimentary bits that came all the way through the meal including desert; and just the generosity of spirit overall. This is a place without pretence and attitude; it’s all about good food and good times. The only false note for me was the desert bar: you have the option to relocate here to mix things up a bit (and to free the table for the hordes desperate to eat here). On the face of it this is a good idea: you get to watch your desert being made for you, and look through the glass wall into the kitchen. The drawback is that you are right next to the kitchen, with lots of traffic. But it’s easily avoided – just say no thanks if asked, and keep your precious table. Pollen Street Social is definitely one of the best bets in London right now.

Boundary, 2-4 Boundary Street, London E2 7DD

Boundary, 2-4 Boundary Street, London E2 7DD
04/07/2012
http://theboundary.co.uk/

She said… My birthday celebrations culminated in dinner at the Boundary, a basement French restaurant in a converted Victorian warehouse which forms part of a designer hotel development by the Conran empire. The restaurant space has an industrial, chic, smart and yet romantic feel; the combination of dark interior with splashes of colour work well. Although the room is open plan, more private seating areas are located around the room and we were seated at an intimate table in a recessed space towards the middle of the dining room whilst being able to look over the whole dining space. Having eaten my weight in cake earlier in the day I opted for the set menu kicking off with an artichoke salad which was full of flavour – perfect. I followed this with the sole which was less inspiring – it looked pretty - it was rolled up into parcels with designer vegetables around but I found the fish a bit chewy. Overall however, the Boundary restaurant is a lovely space with good service and with the right menu choice and a greater appetite, a smart, classy choice for an evening out. I would be keen to try the rooftop restaurant in the right weather and some tea and cake or a light lunch in the café on the ground floor – both of which also look good.

He said… Think of a Conran restaurant and your mind's eye will probably conjure one of the vast, buzzy places that made his reputation last millennium. Boundary is at the more intimate end of the spectrum - just the right place to wind down after a day full of activities to celebrate her birthday. Many moons ago Shoreditch celebrations used to involve warehouses full of happy people, and mind-blowing light shows. Now that Conran has colonised, you can eat from a tight, well-executed French menu in the basement, buy focaccia and gastro fare in the ground floor epicerie, grab a drink on the impressive roof terrace, and catch some zs in the hotel in between. The dining room is romantic in a way you would not expect from an East London basement: frescoes on the ceiling, smartly-dimmed lighting and under-street arches turned into  little alcoves. It all puts you in the right mood for your meal which for me is what this place is about. It's about the experience, the meal fitting  into the rest of your day exploring an interesting part of London, rather than the food which was the usual solid, Conran standard. Don't miss the roof terrace.

Savoy, Strand, London, WC2R 0EU

Savoy, Strand, London, WC2R 0EU
04/07/2012
http://www.fairmont.com/savoy-london/dining/

She said: We don’t normally review ‘teas’ but an exception has to be made for the Savoy. He took me here as part of my birthday treat. Straight off – I must say that tea at the Savoy should be on everyone’s ‘things to do before I die’ list. Absolute perfection. From the moment we arrived and the happy, engaging cloakroom attendants took our coats we were in paradise; this paradise being a beautiful, glamorous, comfortable, ‘never want to leave’ parlour-cum-living room with high ceilings and ornate furnishings, with a pianist turning out classics from Fitzgerald, Sinatra and company from a birdcage-like enclosure and fellow tea-takers sharing the same pleasure in every second that passes in this wonderful place. The way it works at the Savoy (and how high-tea should work everywhere) is that you pay one set price which entitles you to repeat teas, sandwiches, scones and mini-cakes. The tea list is exhaustive and the sandwiches (which included salmon, basil and tomato, egg and mayonnaise and cheese and pickle) melted in the mouth and despite knowing I should pace myself I had to dig in to a scone. The service was immaculate – friendly, smart and attentive; after a certain passing of time the waiters would replace your tea pot with a fresh hot one and you could of course change the type of tea at any point. When we had our fill of sandwiches we were presented with a picture box of mini cakes on a silver tray. We divided and conquered picking different ones each containing mixes of creams, fruit, chocolate and meringue. When we were just about ready to explode and despite spreading things out over a few hours we were offered a hefty slice of cake which I forced on myself determined to eat my weight in pudding. Oh, and I forgot to say they preceded the cake-fest with some rocky road with a candle in and ‘happy birthday’ scribed in chocolate sauce to mark my unforgettable day. Happiness is tea at the Savoy.

He said: It's just as well that, as far as tourists are concerned, the Ritz has the best rep for afternoon tea. That means that locals can keep the Savoy, the true champ in this category, for themselves. This really is the way it's meant to be: flawless from start to finish, walking that tightrope between exclusivity and hospitality, generous and attentive, all in a really handsome, classy and comfortable setting. Tea can sometimes be twee and girlie, but not here, where the decor is a contemporary twist on 18th-century exoticism. It's a room in which to linger, which we did, trying out the various  teas brews from the extensive list, and endless cut sandwiches and sweets. Skip lunch, go early and spend the afternoon.