Mari Vanna, 116 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7PJ

Mari Vanna, 116 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7PJ

29/05/2012
http://www.marivanna.co.uk/

She said…To celebrate his recent success in a Russian related project at work, we decided a Russian meal was in order and headed to Mari Vanna. Set in a Knightsbridge classic townhouse building, I loved the fancy grandma’s living room feel of the dining room. Heavy on lace and stuffed with Russian ornaments, jars of Mari Vanna produce and crockery with sparkling chandeliers and cheesy Russian music this place couldn’t help but charm me. On sitting down we were given a complimentary plate of delicious breads, dips and savoury snacks which could have been a meal in themselves. Given the occasion we didn’t want to be modest in our ordering but probably should have reviewed the number of dishes we chose when the waiter visibly took a sharp intake of breath as he finished writing down our order. Nevertheless, the starter pirozhok with seabass – which was a sort of seafood pasty, was tasty, and the beetroot salad was sweet and compulsive eating. To follow I had to order the salmon blinis; until now I thought this involved tiny little canapé-like pancakes with a bit of salmon on  - but not at Mari Vanna. Three, beautifully thin, large pancakes came alongside a plate filled with delicious salmon, accompanied by pots of chopped onion, sour cream and grated egg which I proceeded to make into a roll and thoroughly enjoy but quickly realising I was full (despite him having half) and the mains were still to come. A huge plate of pelmeni filled with seafood arrived which was similar to tortellini. It was delicious but as his main arrived at the same time we knew there was no way we were getting through the mains. I stuffed more of these fish-filled pasta shapes into my mouth than I had room for but it was worth it. The total bill for two came to £100 including two glasses of Prosecco which is on the high side but we could and should have ordered half the amount and still have been full. Mari Vana is a relaxed, smart and kitschy dining space with great service and an extensive menu, with excellent choice of Russian dishes. Prices might be on the high side but more canny ordering will make a difference – and in our case would have allowed room for dessert which looked good but I didn’t want to risk being unable to stand if I had tried to get any Russian pastries into my mouth after our eating marathon.

He Said… Quick: what do you think of when you hear ‘Russian Food’? Right, babushkas dishing out stodgy slop in a concrete bunker. This is the stereotype that Mari Vanna is up against, yet it still manages to impress. The atmosphere is wealthy pre-revolutionary dacha: a bike and pictures of granny hung on the walls, chintzy everything everywhere – the kind of cosiness that very few Russians would remember, but many might actually long for. But don’t be fooled by the lo-fi vibe: Mari Vanna is sited almost right next door to One Hyde Park  - the most expensive residential block in London, and therefore the world; the rent ain’t cheap, and neither will your meal. But the staff makes parting with your money so pleasant that you almost don’t mind. Anyone who’s ever been to Russia will find this kind of pleasant service totally alien. And sure enough our waiter was French, as I found out when I tried to order in Russian (her condition for us booking the place). But the manager was definitely Russian, and definitely friendly when showing me around the rest of the place. The menu is extensive and covers all the classics pelmeni, vareniki, blini, etc., all of it familiar but prepared with finesse – like a cutely painted Trojan horse delivering you the many thousands of calories needed to fight the long Russian winters. If you go, then remember that the food is meant for sharing. The portions were authentically large, which I didn’t expect in this part of town; had I known then lunch for two (including prosecco) would have cost £70 instead of £100 (ouch!). Not a give away, but I’d go back: it’s the kind of food and experience that you can’t get in many places in London.