Sushisamba, Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate, London EC2N 4AY

Sushisamba, Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate, London EC2N 4AY

12/01/13

http://sushisamba.com/location/london

She said: I needed a place for a super special occasion so opted for this recent addition to the 'impress' category of London dining and impress it did. SushiSamba is situated on the 38th floor of a city skyscraper with a dedicated lift that blasts you up as you stare out through the glass at the magnificent London skyline. You then enter a space of blonde wood and colourful lights and ceiling ornamentation which is a small bar space that winds into a vast open dining space with windows all around and a warmth and excitement set off by the furnishings inside. I had asked for a good table and was assured we had the best as we were seated overlooking breathtaking scenery beyond an outdoor terrace which, if it wasn't freezing outside, would be THE prime location to be (roll on summer).  Service was friendly and we were brought complimentary fizz to celebrate our special occasion which was a lovely gesture and set the standard for the rest of the meal which exceeded expectations. The menu is mostly a mix of tapas style dishes, offering South American and Japanese cuisine. Let's be clear, the prices here are special occasion or expense account prices (or for people with offshore accounts) but the quality of food, service and setting make it damn well worth it. We ordered three tapas style dishes and something from the 'large' dishes section (though in hindsight substituting this for more tapas would be better). The food was exquisite. The yellowtail taquitos were full of flavour as was the salmon ceviche. The corn tamales was okay as was the main dish of moqueca which was a sort of paella, I think I liked them more than he. The deserts were unique - I went for a chilli cholocate dish which looked beautiful and tasted heavenly but I felt the chilli! The tea could have been a bit more generous though I loved my espresso-like martini.  For a Saturday lunch the fact that the place was full when the 'city of london' is closed is a testament to just how good it is. At about £60+ per head no one seemed to be wincing and I see this place growing in success. What I loved is how unpretentious it was. It could easily have gone that route but staff were friendly, diners were dressed smart casual and we were able to take our time over three hours without feeling we were being hurried (so tired of restaurants saying 'we need the table back in 90 minutes'); folks, take a leaf out of this place which I hope to return to without needing a special occasion as an excuse...

He said: We all know it: eating out is as much about the place as it is about the food. Well, Captain Hook could count on one hand the number of restaurants in London with the wow factor of Sushisamba. It starts with getting there: step into the outdoors glass lift, strap a blindfold on anyone with vertigo, and push the ‘38’ button. Wow. None of London’s other high-rise restaurants (Paramount, Rhodes24, etc) can deliver that right now. The narrow hallway connecting the lift to the restaurant reels you in a bit, to set up another `Wow’ moment as you walk into the vast, glazed dining room, all its office-tower edges softened by a canopy consisting of a huge Yves Tanguy-style fishing net supported by bamboo poles. I can only describe the effect as `under-the-sea/meets above-the-clouds/meets Blade Runner’. By this point expectations are sky-high, but the food rises to the challenge.  The idea here is South American Japanese. It’s one of those combinations that sounds crazy at first, but then makes perfect sense. Can you name anywhere else in town that does that? Me neither. Yes, London is in the middle of ceviche fever, and yes Nobu spent some time in Peru; but nowhere else in London will you get your yellowtail ceviche served in crispy taquitos, overlooking the Gherkin, St Paul’s and everything else. I would happily have those for starter, main and desert. OK, OK, I might have another one of those killer cocktails for desert. I probably don’t need to tell you that this kind of unique doesn’t come cheap, though for me it was free. She’d booked the place for a special occasion, and definitely hit a home run with Sushisamba.

Tonkotsu, 63 Dean Street, London W1D 4QG

Tonkotsu, 63 Dean Street, London W1D 4QG

05/01/13

www.tonkotsu.co.uk

She said: I was caught in a rare mood for some noodles and so we headed to the new ‘trendy’ Tonkotsu which had been receiving good reviews. It’s a small restaurant in Soho, basic in design with shared tables. No great initial impression other that this place will be about the food. But alas, the rave was greater than the reality. I ordered a mushroom miso (the only vegetarian main dish on a very small menu) which took forever to come – maybe 30 minutes for a bowl of noodles…We also shared some mushroom Gyoza which he was upset about being all stuck together (five clumps) but which I found tasty if oily; the prawn in batter was good but waiting so long for my food increased expectations which – for the price (almost £40 for two with one soft drink) was not met. I would suggest opting for the cheaper ramen chains which may not be as refined in the ‘quality’ of their miso broth but to be honest – unless you were a ramen connoisseur, you would not know the difference.

He said: The first thing that strikes you about Tonkotsu is the very pleasant smell of the rich stock bubbling away – definitely a good omen for a ramen joint. The space is cosy and done-up in a modern version of the familiar Japanese ‘wood everywhere’ décor. All very authentic. I was half expecting that incomprehensible greeting often shouted at you in Japanese restaurants when you walk in. The menu is very short: three types of ramen, and a handful of sides. We both went for the veggie ramen, and gyoza and prawn katsu. The sides were unremarkable and I would avoid them next time, but the ramen was delicious – the mushroom/miso stock had a depth of flavour that’s really scarce and a wonderful change from the thin and bland norm. Having said that more vegetables would have been nice to add greater texture and substance. I might go back in a while, when they’ve sorted out some of the glitches with the service and sides; meanwhile the search for the ultimate London ramen joint continues. There are not many covers, so plan on eating American style (ie early) if you don’t want to queue.