Tonkotsu, 63 Dean Street, London W1D 4QG
05/01/13
She said: I was caught in a rare mood
for some noodles and so we headed to the new ‘trendy’ Tonkotsu which had been
receiving good reviews. It’s a small restaurant in Soho, basic in design with
shared tables. No great initial impression other that this place will be about
the food. But alas, the rave was greater than the reality. I ordered a mushroom
miso (the only vegetarian main dish on a very small menu) which took forever to
come – maybe 30 minutes for a bowl of noodles…We also shared some mushroom
Gyoza which he was upset about being all stuck together (five clumps) but which
I found tasty if oily; the prawn in batter was good but waiting so long for my
food increased expectations which – for the price (almost £40 for two with one
soft drink) was not met. I would suggest opting for the cheaper ramen chains
which may not be as refined in the ‘quality’ of their miso broth but to be
honest – unless you were a ramen connoisseur, you would not know the
difference.
He said: The first thing that strikes
you about Tonkotsu is the very pleasant smell of the rich stock bubbling away –
definitely a good omen for a ramen joint. The space is cosy and done-up in a
modern version of the familiar Japanese ‘wood everywhere’ décor. All very
authentic. I was half expecting that incomprehensible greeting often shouted at
you in Japanese restaurants when you walk in. The menu is very short: three
types of ramen, and a handful of sides. We both went for the veggie ramen, and
gyoza and prawn katsu. The sides were unremarkable and I would avoid them next
time, but the ramen was delicious – the mushroom/miso stock had a depth of
flavour that’s really scarce and a wonderful change from the thin and bland
norm. Having said that more vegetables would have been nice to add greater
texture and substance. I might go back in a while, when they’ve sorted out some
of the glitches with the service and sides; meanwhile the search for the
ultimate London ramen joint continues. There are not many covers, so plan on
eating American style (ie early) if you don’t want to queue.
Open your eyes. Open your mouth, and let The Real Deal in.
ReplyDeleteShoryu, opposite (and run/ created by) The Japan Centre, Lower Regent Street.
You thank me later for what you are about to receive.