Tonkotsu, 63 Dean Street, London W1D 4QG

Tonkotsu, 63 Dean Street, London W1D 4QG

05/01/13

www.tonkotsu.co.uk

She said: I was caught in a rare mood for some noodles and so we headed to the new ‘trendy’ Tonkotsu which had been receiving good reviews. It’s a small restaurant in Soho, basic in design with shared tables. No great initial impression other that this place will be about the food. But alas, the rave was greater than the reality. I ordered a mushroom miso (the only vegetarian main dish on a very small menu) which took forever to come – maybe 30 minutes for a bowl of noodles…We also shared some mushroom Gyoza which he was upset about being all stuck together (five clumps) but which I found tasty if oily; the prawn in batter was good but waiting so long for my food increased expectations which – for the price (almost £40 for two with one soft drink) was not met. I would suggest opting for the cheaper ramen chains which may not be as refined in the ‘quality’ of their miso broth but to be honest – unless you were a ramen connoisseur, you would not know the difference.

He said: The first thing that strikes you about Tonkotsu is the very pleasant smell of the rich stock bubbling away – definitely a good omen for a ramen joint. The space is cosy and done-up in a modern version of the familiar Japanese ‘wood everywhere’ décor. All very authentic. I was half expecting that incomprehensible greeting often shouted at you in Japanese restaurants when you walk in. The menu is very short: three types of ramen, and a handful of sides. We both went for the veggie ramen, and gyoza and prawn katsu. The sides were unremarkable and I would avoid them next time, but the ramen was delicious – the mushroom/miso stock had a depth of flavour that’s really scarce and a wonderful change from the thin and bland norm. Having said that more vegetables would have been nice to add greater texture and substance. I might go back in a while, when they’ve sorted out some of the glitches with the service and sides; meanwhile the search for the ultimate London ramen joint continues. There are not many covers, so plan on eating American style (ie early) if you don’t want to queue.