Plum and Spilt Milk, Pancras Road,
London N1C 4TB
05/05/2013
She said: He had wandered into the new
Great Northern Hotel opposite St Pancras Station when early for a work-related
meeting in the area and had a quick look at this hidden gem of a restaurant on
the first floor. On discovering it was during its ‘soft launch’ week with 50%
of the food bill we quickly made a booking for the bank holiday weekend.
Despite the rather mouthful of a name, Plum and Spilt Milk is a wonderful find
in the developing King’s Cross quarter. Passing a rather modest, cloakroom
check-in style entrance on the ground floor to the hotel, the scene quickly
changed to a soft toned staircase leading to a beautiful corner room that
beamed invitingly with its vase-shaped warm lighting, bright, large windows
all-around, dark, polished furnishings and beautiful banquettes. The service
was friendly and enthusiastic throughout. The menu offered a good range of
European dishes at reasonable prices (even without the opening promotion) which
I took my time over whilst enjoying a perfect lychee and chilli martini
(Oriental Express). To start, I had a mushroom tart which was heavenly; melting
cheese, flaky pastry and delicious mushrooms complimented each other. I had to
remind myself to savour my mouthfuls as I just wanted to get as much of it as I
could as quickly as I could. I dipped into his haddock soufflé a couple of
times which was also a delight. For mains, I had the pan roasted cod which came
on a bed of mash and I ordered a side of honey carrots. The fish was a generous
portion and cooked just right and just about left me room for desert – despite
again digging into some of his artichoke ravioli which was amazing. We opted
for the tarte tartin for two. After about maybe 25 minutes we were presented
with complimentary champagne and strawberry sorbets ‘while we wait’ which must
have been to make up for the tarte absenteeism. But when the tarte did arrive
it was huge and heavenly. The caramel oozed with every bite and the apples and
thin pastry conspired to make you reach for more and more. The waiter was quick
to heat my tepid latte on request which worked perfectly with the tarte tartin;
I kept going until I was unable to lift my spoon. Because of the promotion the whole thing
came in at am amazing £54 but I would definitely return and recommend Plum wholeheartedly
– be it for corporate lunches, dining with friends and family or celebrations.
It’s great to see the King’s Cross area getting such a fantastic, chic,
delicious addition to the dining scene.
He said: Combine the parameters `Kings
Cross’, `hotel restaurant’ and `outside-the-box [i.e. dumb] name’, and
expectations have hit rock-bottom. So imagine my surprise when I walked away
after a languorous Sunday lunch thinking that we’d just discovered a new
favourite. Everything works, from the moment you walk into the gorgeous
first-floor space bathed in light flooding from windows on all three sides, to
the split second before stepping back out into London’s biggest construction
site. Plum hits the sweet spot bang on the nose: it’s inventive but familiar,
stylish but comfortable, serious but friendly, all that and excellent value
too. A lot of attention to detail has gone into this place, and it shows.
Things kicked off with a delicious rum cocktail [it was after all, a balmy 11
degrees outside], then I followed with a fine soufflé of smoked haddock, and
artichoke ravioli served with rocket, parmesan, spinach and a sweet reduction.
For once the ravioli came in a man-sized portion; full marks to Plum for that.
And to finish we shared a tarte tatin, that classic desert which, like all
‘simple’ dishes of so few ingredients divides absolutely everyone about the
‘right’ way to do it. To quote Sublime, this was the wrong way but so right.
Judging by the very few other guests we are way ahead of the buzz on this one,
but Plum deserves to succeed, and you should go without hesitation. Let the tourists keep Balthazar – this is much
better.
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