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Monday 9 September 2013

Massimo, Corinthia Hotel, 10 Northumberland Avenue, London WC2N 5AE

Massimo Restaurant and Oyster Bar, Corinthia Hotel, 10 Northumberland Avenue, London WC2N 5AE
07/09/2013

She said: We tried coming here a few weeks ago on a Sunday but alas it is not open on Sundays…So we returned on a Saturday with our dining card 2-4-1 discount in hand. Massimo is a stunning, palatial dining space. Imposing Corinthian columns, bold yet elegant lighting, brown leather banquettes, crisp linen table cloths, shimmering bar, and a golden hue throughout the room. I was excited to get stuck in to the menu. I jumped straight into mains and after finding it difficult to choose from so many delicious sounding options I picked a tagliolini with crab and chilli which was perfectly cooked pasta with a juicy chilli oil and succulent crab flakes. I was so impressed, wondering why the place was practically empty and already planning a return. Although tight on time the dessert menu was too tempting so I ordered the chocolate fondant and was assured it would take 15 minutes. 25 minutes later a very dry lump of sponge looked up at me from a large plate and when I took a spoon to it hoping that the molten goodness would flow out my heart sank as a tiny glue-like chocolate sat stuck to the crumbling sponge. Clearly this was overcooked and I was sorely disappointed. The minor consolation was 50% off the bill so we paid £42 for two courses and soft drinks – not the best value if paying full price. Dining at Massimo was like dining in two different restaurants – 10 out of 10 for the first half and a classy experience, 0 out of 10 for the second half and I wish I had got a coffee and cake at any one of the many nearby patisseries instead. Incidentally, customer responsiveness could do with some work; when I informed the waiter the fondant was overcooked and barely edible which was a shame given how good the mains were, he didn’t know what to say – literally, he just stood there nodding as he took payment. The friendly greeting we received on arrival was marked by any acknowledgement whatsoever as we left our table and the restaurant to a hum of silence.

He said: 99% of restaurants included in Discount Dining cards, like Gourmet Society or Taste London, are chains or run-of-the-mill places. But it pays to look hard at the membership list, because every so often a Destination Restaurant slips in: the kind of place with that ‘wow’ factor, where you take someone to celebrate, propose, or break-up (because it’s just too nice to make a fuss in). Massimo is a hell of a good looking restaurant: cathedral-height ceilings, huge windows, flash but still just the right side of classy. We were on our way to see a show, so had time for a main and a desert. I opted for ‘organic barley penne with borrage and shaved ricotta because’: 1) what is borrage? 2) you can shave ricotta? 3) why is this pasta dish so expensive yet vegetarian? I’m none the wiser about the price: the ‘taste to price’ ratio was all wrong. In the 50+ posts written to date I don’t think I dissed the food very often – I generally give the kitchen the benefit of the doubt. But this dish made no sense to me. It’s bland, health-freak type stuff – the kind of dish loved by the likes of Moby, I imagine. So I decided to balance this out with a blow-out, indulgent desert. ‘Mont Blanc Pavlova’, that will do it. Doesn’t that just conjure up the best vision of a mountain of meringue, floating on a giant cloud of cream, and scattered with red fruit symbolizing the crushed bodies of fallen climbers? But no, instead my hopes were crushed, when the saddest pavlova I have ever seen was plopped on the table. It’s like Tommy being promised an Xbox by drunk Santa at the mall, but getting a book of Sudoku Christmas morning. It took me a while to get over the disappointment; in fact I ate the whole thing without actually tasting a single spoon. But you know what: that room is so great, I would still go back, armed with a 2-for-1 card, now that I know the menu is written by a fantasist. Stick to the tried and tested and at that price you can’t go wrong.

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