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Wednesday, 23 October 2013

Bonnie Gull, 21A Foley Street, London W1W 6DS

Bonnie Gull, 21A Foley Street, London W1W 6DS
23/10/2013

She said: Bonnie Gull has the feel of a fine, local seaside eatery – quite an achievement given its Fitzrovia location. This ‘seafood shack’ is a smart, cosy, lightly nautical-themed space with a changing menu catering to seafood lovers (with the odd vegetarian option). I started with the beetroot salmon which was simple but clearly good quality and followed it with a cod that came with some sliced Brussels sprouts and raisins; the cod was again a simple dish (no sauce/’jus’ or other noticeable added flavours) but lukewarm. My dessert was pure chocolate goodness in the form of a chocolate brownie with a caramel salted ice cream. Although the starter and main was nothing to write home about, I really liked Bonnie Gull; I think because it’s refreshing to enjoy a relaxed, friendly, neighbourhood restaurant in the centre of town that has a simple, clear focus. This means you can sit down, order and get on with the joy of hanging out without feeling like ‘they’ need the table back or you’re part of a passing trend or latest ‘pop-up’! The only reality check that we’re in London not Southend was the £82 bill; but then again the fish is responsibly sourced…

He said: One day I will write the ultimate secret London guide, and indexed under ‘fish restaurant’ you will certainly find Bonnie Gull. Not that’s it’s hard to find – a quick Boris-bike ride to Fitzrovia is all it took; no three-hour traffic-chocked crawl to deepest Norfolk or Kent required. But once you get there the vibe is certainly the real Deal. A dozen or so tables are scattered about a cozy room brightly decorated in whites and blues, with windows on two sides letting-in the incomparable British skies and light. Service is chummy and efficient, and the place generally radiates a fine, aren’t-you-happy-we’re-here-instead-of-there atmosphere. I kicked things off with a nice mushroom consommé, and followed with pan-fried hake. Excellent stuff and, at about £20 per main, fairly priced given the quality and the fact that fish are basically nearly extinct. If you’ve grown bored of elbowing your way through throngs of clebs to commandeer your usual table at Scott’s then have a pop at Bonnie’s – I certainly can’t think of another fish place I’d rather hit.

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