Bonnie Gull, 21A Foley Street, London
W1W 6DS
23/10/2013
She said: Bonnie Gull has the feel of a
fine, local seaside eatery – quite an achievement given its Fitzrovia location.
This ‘seafood shack’ is a smart, cosy, lightly nautical-themed space with a
changing menu catering to seafood lovers (with the odd vegetarian option). I
started with the beetroot salmon which was simple but clearly good quality and
followed it with a cod that came with some sliced Brussels sprouts and raisins;
the cod was again a simple dish (no sauce/’jus’ or other noticeable added
flavours) but lukewarm. My dessert was pure chocolate goodness in the form of a
chocolate brownie with a caramel salted ice cream. Although the starter and
main was nothing to write home about, I really liked Bonnie Gull; I think
because it’s refreshing to enjoy a relaxed, friendly, neighbourhood restaurant
in the centre of town that has a simple, clear focus. This means you can sit
down, order and get on with the joy of hanging out without feeling like ‘they’
need the table back or you’re part of a passing trend or latest ‘pop-up’! The
only reality check that we’re in London not Southend was the £82 bill; but then
again the fish is responsibly sourced…
He said: One day I will write the ultimate secret London guide, and
indexed under ‘fish restaurant’ you will certainly find Bonnie Gull. Not that’s
it’s hard to find – a quick Boris-bike ride to Fitzrovia is all it took; no
three-hour traffic-chocked crawl to deepest Norfolk or Kent required. But once
you get there the vibe is certainly the real Deal. A dozen or so tables are
scattered about a cozy room brightly decorated in whites and blues, with
windows on two sides letting-in the incomparable British skies and light.
Service is chummy and efficient, and the place generally radiates a fine,
aren’t-you-happy-we’re-here-instead-of-there atmosphere. I kicked things off
with a nice mushroom consommé, and followed with pan-fried hake. Excellent
stuff and, at about £20 per main, fairly priced given the quality and the fact
that fish are basically nearly extinct. If you’ve grown bored of elbowing your
way through throngs of clebs to commandeer your usual table at Scott’s then
have a pop at Bonnie’s – I certainly can’t think of another fish place I’d
rather hit.
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