Terre a Terre, 71 East Street, Brighton, BN1 1HQ

Terre a Terre, 71 East Street, Brighton, BN1 1HQ

www.terreaterre.co.uk

31/08/2014

She said: A couple of years ago we walked off the street having read an intriguing menu at this smart vegetarian but it was fully booked. Then in June I reserved a table in anticipation of a trip to Brighton which was cancelled due to pneumonia. So when the weather looked good for a day-trip, I hoped the third attempt would be lucky – which indeed it was. Terre a Terre is a deceptively large, contemporary space with a fantastic menu offering original, fresh vegetarian creations which took a while to choose from. Prices are mid-range but worth it. The starter was a heavenly sweetcorn cake unlike anything I have tasted before. I was excited for the next round and waited in anticipation; and waited, and waited and waited. The waitress came over and was proactive in apologising for the delay but promised the wait would not be much longer. However, close to an hour after arriving and seeing other couples who had arrived after us being served dessert he complained. The waitress sounded sincere in her apologies and then the mains arrived. I had ordered something called ‘Bonbon beets and bigarade’ which was good but essentially a roasted potato waffle with some pickled beetroot and some garnish in a tomato-like sauce (butter bean in actuality). Next time I would order something else – what he had was more interesting for example but he can tell you about that. The best was definitely saved for last. Dessert was outstanding. I ordered the chocolate pot and was like a little girl opening her Frozen doll when a trio of magic was presented on a plate: a mini brandy milkshake; a dark chocolate cup filled with crumbly chocolate and topped with a lemon cream; and a killer chocolate salted caramel truffle on a lolly stick. This truly was dessert heaven and the wait for the main was long forgiven. Terre a Terre is a classy, elegant, sophisticated diamond of a vegetarian in a country of one too many hungry hippie cafes that serve stodgy, stereotypical staples. This place is bang up to date and must have brought many a meat-eater into the light.  Although the food delay was not good, the waitress was gracious in automatically deducting the main courses from our bill while he wandered around the restaurant buying salted truffles. Bottom line: if you’re in Brighton, make this top of your hit list (but reserve first).

He said: What a bummer that Terre à Terre is an hour away on a fast train! If it was in London I would definitely make this a regular; it is my favourite of the vegetarians we tried, ahead of The Gate in W6. What gives this one the edge is the sheer inventiveness of the cooking: reading the menu is exciting stuff and choosing is actually a struggle, it’s all so well described. This place is not just about the thrill of cooking, it’s also about the thrill of eating: it’s not merely prettily arranged ‘art on a plate’. Terre à terre clearly gets that eating out is as much about showing off its wizardry as it is about punters walking away feeling happy. There was a minor bump in the road to happiness, with our food coming our rather late, but even that couldn’t stop us being blown away by the food. The stand-out dish for me was a delicious spin on Japanese slow-cooked aubergine. But pretty much anything on the menu is evidence of the kitchen’s passion for flavour, texture, colour and fun. There’s no mock meat of any sort, no apology made for anything, as though it’s a given that, of course, Vegetarian is the greatest cuisine of them all. In fact you could easily not notice that this place is veggie. But what sets Terre à terre apart from so many others, veggie or not, is that it really cares, which is all too uncommon these days of timed slots, and miserly portion control. If I had money to burn (if only) I would definitely bankroll a second opening somewhere in London.

Mo Café, Heddon Street, London W1B 4BH

Mo Café, Heddon Street, London W1B 4BH

http://momoresto.com/restaurant/london/momo

30/08/2014

She said: I’d just finished ploughing through an afternoon tea book he bought me and was keen to try out Mo Café, the informal neighbour to Momo – the trendy, pricier Moroccan off Regent Street. At £22, the afternoon tea promised ‘the essence of Morocco’.  We decided to sit out on the plant-enclosed terrace, a world away from the busy, tourist-filled shopping streets of Piccadilly. The Moroccan mint tea I chose was compulsive but it was irritating that I had to wave down a waiter each time I wanted a refill (which was around every three sips from the pretty little glass). An exciting food-filled cake stand was brought out and I like the fact that there were two of everything (except the biscuits) so we both were able to try the same things. The savouries were good but not enough. It included a small but succulent falafel wrap, some mini toasted breads with juicy spreads, a yummy small cheese pastry but a disappointing salmon sandwich where I had to hunt for the scrap of fish. The tea was definitely slanted in favour of the sweets which were deliciously faultless and included a smooth, tasty brownie, pistachio macaroon and creamy lemon cake. The scone was as boring as I’ve come to expect but a real discovery was the Maghreb pastries, which turned out to be the most flavoursome sugar dusted, almond biscuits in the world. I was annoyed when presented with the bill and noticed the teas had been charged at an additional £10 but a new bill was presented quickly when they saw me notice (afternoon tea normally includes the tea in the price)! One for the tourists or an honest mistake? Still, Mo Café is a good alternative for some tea and cake when needing a break or change of scene from the craziness that is London.

He said: Tea at Momo’s is a really good proposition which, on our visit, was let down by lacklustre service. The setting is a great contrast to the hustle and bustle of Regent’s Street, especially on a nice day when you can take your tea on the terrace. The exotic nibbles are a really nice change from the traditional offering, and of very good quality, as you’d expect from Momo’s. Although these aren’t refreshed (as they sometimes are, increasingly rarely, and mostly out-of-town) but the quantity was fine, even if you cheated and skipped lunch; but I do wish that there were more of the savouries, especially since these are standards (falafel, cheesy filo, etc.) prepared in huge batches and round the clock for the main restaurant. Afternoon tea is obviously a luxury, and punters tend to justify the indulgence as a special occasion thing, expecting stellar service and setting. At Momo’s we turned up and no-one seemed to know about our booking, we had to ask often for refills, for the bill, and then for a correction to the bill; in short the front of house just didn’t care. Afternoon tea is as much about the experience as it is about the nosh; and without attentive service you might as well save money and just order a sharing plate of meze and a pot of mint tea. 

Ham Yard Hotel, Ham Yard, London W1D 7DT

Ham Yard Hotel, Ham Yard, London W1D 7DT

www.firmdalehotels.com/hotels/london/ham-yard-hotel

29/08/2014

She said: Mum’s 78^th so I needed something on the Piccadilly Line within a two-minute walk of the station. The new Ham Yard Hotel, part of the Firmdale group which owns a number of style hotels in London seemed to provide a varied menu in a smart but relaxed setting. From the outset, service was friendly and our particular waitress was exceptional in making mum feel special. We were seated at a banquette in the middle of the colourful dining space which my parents loved. They all ordered starters but as nothing appealed to me I thought I’d save room for dessert and ordered a delicious martini instead. The bread presentation was a bit odd: a lady came round and placed a mini baguette on each plate. In restaurants of this ‘positioning’ I’m used to being offered some sort of choice (brown or white for example) and certainly checking if indeed we’d actually like bread at all. Still, I tore the rather chunky baguette and took a couple of bites to pass the time. My main was perfection: a good portion of juicy trout, with perfectly cooked roasted potatoes and courgette. Though I was hesitant over pudding as there was no sign of chocolate on the menu, I went with the blueberry tart which was a wonderful surprise; sweet, juicy, crumbly pastry and a dollop of clotted cream, much of which my diabetic dad dug into with repetitive praise (it contained fruit so he figures that’s okay). Though mum ordered a crème brulee which she enjoyed to the last spoonful, the staff brought out a pretty cupcake with a candle as they sang Happy Birthday. This was a really lovely touch and my mum was delighted as she made her wish and we forced this additional piece of pudding into our bellies (absolutely delicious incidentally). There was a mix up with my latte so I had to chase for about 15 minutes after the other coffees arrived but the petit fours it came with were very good despite my sugar overload. At around £35 per head including two cocktails, Ham House offers good food in a good location at a good price. Great for celebrations, business lunches or more casual get-togethers. A welcome, smart addition to the rather mixed end of Piccadilly.

He said: The name’s pretty much the only thing I don’t like about this place. Ham Yard; that only makes me think of abattoirs and gay clubs. But other than that it’s a really good middle of the road option. The room’s done in a bright, updated version of the postmodernism of the late 80s: a lively mishmash of different influences, done in an opulent but not exclusive way. Bucking the trend dominating nearly every London eatery, the portions here are very generous – what you would expect from a country pub, and big enough to silence the greediest, grumpiest uncle. And Ham Yard is set on its own inner courtyard, a spit away from Piccadilly Circus, the hideously busy tourist roundabout which is pretty much a dead zone for anywhere good to eat. On a fine summer’s eve the large terrace outside the restaurant is definitely one of the area’s best hang-outs. Ham Yard does not tick all the boxes, the menu is not especially imaginative or as good as it could be, and the cocktails are far too expensive compared to everything else, but it’s excellent value and a very attractive, convenient spot. 

Shayona, 54-62 Meadow Garth, Neasden, London NW10 8HD

Shayona, 54-62 Meadow Garth, Neasden, London NW10 8HD

www.shayonarestaurants.com

17/08/2014

She said: A find! Shayona is a vegetarian Indian restaurant by the car park opposite the amazing Neasden Temple. The restaurant is a large, simple, modern space. The menu huge! Price great value. Food authentic. If you fancy the lunch buffet instead of a la carte it’s only £8 for all you can eat. We opted for the a la carte, picking a mix of delicious starters and spicy but compulsive vegetable curries. There was a moment of comedy when the sizzling, spicy vegetable tandoori came out in an all-consuming smoke which left everyone coughing and choking (but tasted amazing). We couldn’t try everything we wanted as there was so much choice. There’s an on-site Indian sweet shop and supermarket. This place is amazing. The real thing. Suffice to say Shayona is a place we’ll return to many times. Jai ho!

He said: Shayona reminds you that Indian food is great without any of the fiddly nouvelle trickery on display at all the shmancy Indian restaurants that you find exclusively in those postcodes where high rents mean having to scam your punters into dropping a packet for food they don’t really like or understand. Those places are just like opera or $1000 dollar bottles of wine: everyone’s too chicken to say what they mean. But not at Shayona, which is attached to the biggest Hindu temple in the UK, so the karma and all the shakras are just so. You get your Wow! moment looking around the temple; then you sit down for lunch in a spotless room; receive genuinely courteous and friendly service; gobble tasty, cruelty-free food cooked really well; pay very little for it, and walk out the door already thinking about what else you’ll have on your next visit. Now that’s a no-brainer!

Sketch, Lecture Room, 9 Conduit Street, London W1S 2XG

Sketch, Lecture Room, 9 Conduit Street, London W1S 2XG

www.sketch.uk.com

12/08/2014

She said: I had good news and wanted a special place to share and celebrate this good thing. Sketch Lecture Room had been on my radar for a while but his aversion to Sketch, which he thought was pretentious had kept it at bay. However, following his recent conversion after our afternoon tea in Sketch Gallery, and despite his initial push towards another destination, he suddenly favoured the two Michelin Star Lecture Room. In short, I was blown away. Let start with the room: pure luxury at every turn. Rich autumnal colours, velvety sheen, stunning glass dome letting in sunlight which threw further magic across the room. Just exquisite. It could be so easy in such a place for the service to be affected but it was quite the opposite; friendly, attentive and delivered in a way that made you feel so very special. The food the piece de la resistance. No write-up can do it justice – and we were ‘just’ having the Gourmet Rapide: three courses for £40 including coffee and petits fours. The food presentation was a work of art and the substance delicious if a bit petit (but that meant room for all the different bits we were presented with). I liked the recommendations of which order to have various bits of the starters in (they were presented in a set of three) and all the amuse bouche and fresh bread with citrus butter. I loved that when they brought me my sparkling apple juice, they presented the bottle to me like a rare vintage as I nodded politely. The three different desserts were equally appetising and the petit fours original (though I did miss that old crowd pleaser: chocolate). By the time we left the place was almost full. Sketch Lecture Room is a special place. A complete experience.

He said: The Lecture Room is the only place I can remember going to where the 12.5% service charge seems like an absolute bargain. From the second you arrive to the second you leave you feel like a prince, with a battalion of foot soldiers drilled to perfection to make you feel like you’re gliding through the clouds on your magic carpet. And they’re all French! If you ever wondered, on holidays, why the French are such bastards it’s because all the good ones also couldn’t take it there and moved to London instead, most of them working at The Lecture Room. And you can see why: the building is a pretty special place, very French, in its goofy, surreal maxiness; this is what I imagine the restaurant in Michel Gondry’s head looks like. The Lecture room is the more traditional of all the various spaces in this giant eating emporium (the biggest in London?) –more of the neoclassical vibe of the building comes through, but it’s still got some wild touches, like the very Goth bathroom. The tables are very widely spaced, which is good for your plutocratic self-image but also for the champagne trolley (!) to be wheeled-in moments after you sit down. We opted for the mini tasting menu, which meant 8 or so small plates, more than I can remember, but all very visually pleasing and tasty. This is definitely food which has been handled in the kitchen, literally; if this is one of your phobias (my jury is still out on this one) then you might be visualizing germs everywhere, which will impede your ability to appreciate how nice it all looks on the plate. The Lecture Room is a great place for a long, indulgent lunch or dinner. Another pleasant surprise from Sketch!

Kurobuta, 17-20 Kendal Street, London W2 2AW

Kurobuta, 17-20 Kendal Street, London W2 2AW

10/08/2014

www.kurobuta-london.com

She said: A new local to try. We hadn’t gone immediately as the media hype had put me off. Why are the media so maniacal when it comes to finding the latest hip place? It creates a run of trendies to what would otherwise be a lovely neighbourhood spot to have good, innovative food in a local setting. We went during the day to avoid the herd and I was surprised to find a lovely, open contemporary space with fresh cakes sitting on the counter. Mmm, a possible future cake spot I thought. The menu offers a good range of small Japanese/Asian dishes (yes it’s another sharing concept place) but prices are high for what you get. That said, what you get is very, very good. For example, we had a Tuna Sashimi pizza which was amazing but the size of a coaster with a £10 price tag. The Miso grilled Aubergine was outstanding and the Pumpkin Tempura tasty (if salty). The bill came to almost £60 for just four small sharing plates and a cocktail for him. We also took two cakes away at a more reasonable price, with my Yuzu meringue being extremely good. So Kurobuta is a bit of a dilemma; great space and interesting menu but prices a bit silly. I guess that’s why it’s for the trendies rather that for the neighbours in its very neighbourhood setting.

He said: Kurobuta is a really interesting place serving wonderful food prepared with a degree of meticulousness in total contrast with the self-consciously low-fi, hang-out-with-your-mates setting. You can almost hear the chef ruminating: ‘my cooking kicks Michelin in his big, rubbery ass, but I’m not playing the Michelin game’. So cue the alt-rock soundtrack, uncomfortable benches, dishes that come out whenever it suits the kitchen, and Soundgarden posters. I suppose I respect Chef Miyagi for that; I can dig a slacker with skills. And the skills are in full show when the plates start coming out. There’s a whole bunch of dishes here that you couldn’t and wouldn’t get anywhere else: everyone’s surprise hit, carnivores included, is the aubergine in miso, and the sashimi ‘pizza’ is also great, as is the mushroom stew. On a repeat visit later that week I tried the scallops which were killer too. I suppose that Kurobuta is objectively expensive, there’s no way around that, but throw in so many uniquely pleasing dishes, clearly made with the best of everything, and you’ll be walking out thinking ‘good value’ instead. I like.  

The Mirabelle, Grand Hotel, King Edward’s Parade, Eastbourne, BN21 4EQ

The Mirabelle, Grand Hotel, King Edward’s Parade, Eastbourne, BN21 4EQ

02/08/2014

www.grandeastbourne.com/eastbourne-restaurants

She said: Heaven. A real surprise of a gem. We were in Easbourne marching along the South Downs Way for our wedding anniversary (incidentally stunning) and I thought the classic Grand Hotel would be a good place to end our outdoor escapade in style and to toast to making it another year in this fickle world. I believe I outdid myself, even if I say so myself. The approach to the Victorian Grand Hotel is magnificent and has apparently welcomed the likes of Chaplin and Churchill. After changing in the loos from my hiking clothes to a pretty little frock hidden in my backpack, I met him in the beautiful, intimate, old-world dining room that is Mirabelle. From the website photos I was worried it might be a bit OAP but my concerns were unfounded. The second I was seated an aura of calm luxury took over as a pianist tinkered lovely standards in the background. Mirabelle is no doubt an occasion restaurant; two cakes accompanied by singing waiters made an appearance during our stint here, and you can see why. Service, setting and food were outstanding. I cannot find fault with anything. How often can you say that? The salmon starter, wow, the risotto compulsive and the chocolate fondant out-of-this world AND they brought the tea with the dessert as requested. When I wanted an espresso martini, they brought it from the hotel bar – and not a stingy little glass I’ve had in so many an establishment but proper size. I didn’t want to leave and was wishing I had booked a room for the night to allow for more of the same. I’m already trying to think of an excuse to return to Eastbourne; somewhere that wasn’t even on my map until now.

He said: When you live in London it’s easy to think that it’s the only place to eat, and that everyone outside the North Circular is still feasting on Wimpy Burgers and pickled eggs. This is why it never occurred to me that the food might actually be really good at Mirabelle. After hiking for a few hours to get to Eastbourne I was sufficiently famished that even a pickled egg might have tasted good. But Mirabelle really delivered a very good lunch; and I mean very good by any standard, not just by country bumpkin standard. The Grand was around the century before last, before EasyJet, when people holidayed in Britain, and when the likes of Lewis Carroll would decamp to Eastbourne for the summer. The old-school service might have always appealed more to the older crowd. But old people do know a thing or two about what’s good and protecting that in the face of ever-changing fads. In over a hundred years of serving fussy old fogies Mirabelle clearly learned what works. Most impressive of all Mirabelle managed, as requested, to bring coffee at precisely the same time as desert; I can count on one hand the number of restaurants that have managed to maintain that kind of focus all the way through. You should definitely check out Mirabelle if you’re every down there.