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Sunday 28 September 2014

Betty Blythe, 73 Blythe Road, London W14 0HP

Betty Blythe, 73 Blythe Road, London W14 0HP
28/09/2014

She said: I was so excited to visit this off-the-tourist track ‘vintage tea room’ in a quiet residential street in Kensington so was equally disappointed when it so horrendously failed to meet my expectations. These expectations were simple things like being served in a timely manner, the joy of seeing the tiered plates of cakes arranged beautifully on vintage china while wrestling with what order to eat my sugary treats in and spreading a thin layer of clotted cream and huge scoop of jam across a warm scone. Instead, the tea room was an uninspiring and very hot space with three tables squeezed in. Our tea arrived around 20 minutes before a plate of standard sandwiches (cucumber, egg and salmon). We then had another long wait before a plate of pre-spread scones were brought to us at which point we proceeded to scrape away the humongous lump of clotted cream plopped on the scone and try to make the most of the tiny spoon of jam atop. I’ve done my fair share of afternoon teas and this is the first time the scones have come pre-loaded with the cream and ration of jam. As the waitress removed our plates and noticed the scraped slabs of cream on the side, she commented ‘you don’t like cream’ to which I simply replied ‘not that much’…Still, I waited for the highlight, the tiered presentation of yummy cakes but instead came a mini brownie on a single plate. Hmm, okay, I ate this, it was good but what was going on? 15 minutes later one mini loaf of lemon drizzle on a plate which we cut in half and shared. Again fine. He thought this was it but I thought surely not…Another 10 minutes or so later we were offered a choice of macaroon flavours, I went for pistachio which again arrived on a single plate looking very lonely and tasting very sugary with little evidence of any nut flavour. And then we came to an end. A rather bizarre vintage tea experience. There were some attempts at fun, like the box of vintage hats we were encouraged to wear when we arrived but these all looked a bit manky and made me hot and itchy. It did make me reflect on how anyone can open a room, bake a few cakes, spread some sandwiches and brand it vintage but equally appreciate the few that get it right.


He said: In short Betty Blythe is over-rated. Perhaps people are excited because it’s in a random part of town (Earl’s Court) where there’s not that much going on, unless the dog grooming show, or the ideal home show are rocking the joint around the corner. Maybe a Time Out boffin lives nearby and has been busily tweeting about Betty’s. Don’t get me wrong: it’s fine, but there really ain’t much to write home about, or to go out of your way for. BB’s goes for a homely vibe, being set in the ground floor of a corner terraced house, with lots of knick-kacks to play with (feather boas, hats, etc.). But our first experience of it, having arrived a few minutes early, was a frosty reception; of course we couldn’t take our table early, despite nearly all of them being empty. It turns out that the ladies dunking the tea bags are actually French, so I gave them a pass; by Parisian standards we had got the star treatment. Everything was ok, but both food and drink were unmemorable, and served really slowly in dribs and drabs. The chuckle sisters just couldn’t cope with loading the pre-prepared goodies all at once on the three-tiered stand; so much for the traditional experience. I actually saw them turn away a bunch of people who walked in just wanting to order take away coffees. I guess they’re not in it for the money, but for the love of tradition. Don’t bother, unless you’re nearby.    

Saturday 27 September 2014

The Colony, Beaumont Hotel, 8 Balderton Street, London W1K 6TF

The Colony, Beaumont Hotel, 8 Balderton Street, London W1K 6TF
www.colonygrillroom.com
27/09/2014

She said: A brand new hotel opening on our doorstep with a restaurant from the folk who operate the Brasserie Zedel, so we had to have a try. The Colony can’t be missed with its central location almost immediately on entering through the art deco doors of The Beaumont. As I walked through the American Bar into the restaurant I was encouraged by the dark wood walls and red banquettes with photos and artwork working hard to create that jazz age era. This would have worked really well if some jazz had been playing but the absence of any sort of music left a slight emptiness in the atmosphere. I should confess, we were visiting on the last day of the soft launch so drills were still in the background no doubt dealing with last-minute snagging and waiters weren’t allowed to flambe at the table until the various regulatory requirements had been met. The service was clearly in the test phase with friendly French staff keen to help but sometimes having to double check what certain things on the menu were. Nevertheless, service was welcoming and professional. The menu offers a range of British-American dishes, nothing exceptional but all fine for such an establishment. Prices are on the high side for what you get. I ordered a kedgeree which was unlike any I’ve had before but in a positive sense. It had a strong curry flavour to it which worked for me though the portion could have been a little more generous. I hit jackpot ordering the chocolate marquise for dessert which was outstanding. Certainly can’t complaint about portion size here – a huge square of gianduja with a nutty ice cream. The tea came in a beautiful art deco silver pot which easily carried four cups so it seems it’s just the main dishes that are more carefully portioned out. I was actually enjoying my time at the Colony until he pointed out it felt dead. I normally leave it to him to say what he thought but once he pointed it out, I did sense something wasn’t working. The space had a slight old man feel to it (I think it’s going for the old school gentleman’s club vibe). I still think a bit of Nina Simone would have solved that concern. Still, given the price versus what you get and where you are, there are better options in town.


He said: On the day that we went I can’t say that I found much to get excited about by Colony. It’s, in effect, glorified diner food, or Classic American, if you’re feeling generous, and served in a grand-ish deco space. I don’t get it; who is this for? Is this a socially-acceptable alternative to McDonald’s for timid or home-sick American package holiday makers who can’t deal with jellied eels and other ‘authentic’ British delicacies? The silver-haired diners filling the room when we went definitely suggest people looking for comfort food; but maybe that’s the demographic to expect at brunch. It was lacking any buzz, and feeling awkward, like the jarring combination of food and setting. We went during soft-launch, which took the edge off; I would have been in a foul mood had I paid full price for my mac & cheese, mushroom & spinach hash, and baked Alaska. Still, given the location and the august backers, I’m sure Colony will fill up with Bright Young Things convinced that they are at the epicentre of gilded and ironic cool.

Sunday 21 September 2014

Lupita, 13-15 Villiers Street, London WC2N 6ND

Lupita, 13-15 Villiers Street, London WC2N 6ND
21/09/2014

She said: We were on a busy schedule nosing around London’s Open House so we headed to Lupita for a Mexican lunch break. We had come across Lupita in Selfridges a few months ago where we sampled something cheesy and said we’d try their full restaurant experience. Tucked on a corner of the busy Villiers Street, Lupita is a fairly standard looking modern space but once you get a hold of the menu things change. There’s a huge array of dishes to choose from and overcome with hunger we picked a selection from various sections of the menu. Everything was amazing; great flavours, decent portions, creative dishes. I wouldn’t have the cactus again, simply because on my first taste I realised I don’t like cactus. I also thought the fish ceviche was not for me but a good portion and he seemed to enjoy it. We didn’t have time for desserts but they sounded worthwhile. Lupita is a good option of you want reasonably priced, tasty Mexican food with lots of healthy and chubby choices for everyone. Would definitely go back.


He said: We stepped into Lupita with few expectations, and these were easily surpassed! Mexican food has been the victim of Old El Paso-style chemical warfare for far too long, and it’s only with the likes of Wahaca (just) that the reputation of this much maligned cuisine has finally been burnished. You probably haven’t been to Mehico, and neither have I. But I’ve been to San Diego, which is as close as you can get without a border frisking, and where you can get genuinely, authentically knock-out Mexican food. Lupita is the first place I’ve been to in London that delivers that wonderful combination of heartiness, cut through with zingy spiciness. The menu is extensive, with something there for everyone, vegetarians included. My only gripe is that service was slow, which I’ll chalk up to Sunday slowness. And at that price point you might expect a slightly more comfortable space: Lupita was clearly shoe-horned into some Edwardian wreck of a building and on the chilly day we attended all the doors were propped open to ventilate the grills. But these are minor points to balance out an otherwise really good experience. Another day another favourite!