The
Colony, Beaumont Hotel, 8 Balderton Street, London W1K 6TF
www.colonygrillroom.com
www.colonygrillroom.com
27/09/2014
She said: A brand new hotel opening on our doorstep with a restaurant from the folk who operate the Brasserie Zedel, so we had to have a try. The Colony can’t be missed with its central location almost immediately on entering through the art deco doors of The Beaumont. As I walked through the American Bar into the restaurant I was encouraged by the dark wood walls and red banquettes with photos and artwork working hard to create that jazz age era. This would have worked really well if some jazz had been playing but the absence of any sort of music left a slight emptiness in the atmosphere. I should confess, we were visiting on the last day of the soft launch so drills were still in the background no doubt dealing with last-minute snagging and waiters weren’t allowed to flambe at the table until the various regulatory requirements had been met. The service was clearly in the test phase with friendly French staff keen to help but sometimes having to double check what certain things on the menu were. Nevertheless, service was welcoming and professional. The menu offers a range of British-American dishes, nothing exceptional but all fine for such an establishment. Prices are on the high side for what you get. I ordered a kedgeree which was unlike any I’ve had before but in a positive sense. It had a strong curry flavour to it which worked for me though the portion could have been a little more generous. I hit jackpot ordering the chocolate marquise for dessert which was outstanding. Certainly can’t complaint about portion size here – a huge square of gianduja with a nutty ice cream. The tea came in a beautiful art deco silver pot which easily carried four cups so it seems it’s just the main dishes that are more carefully portioned out. I was actually enjoying my time at the Colony until he pointed out it felt dead. I normally leave it to him to say what he thought but once he pointed it out, I did sense something wasn’t working. The space had a slight old man feel to it (I think it’s going for the old school gentleman’s club vibe). I still think a bit of Nina Simone would have solved that concern. Still, given the price versus what you get and where you are, there are better options in town.
She said: A brand new hotel opening on our doorstep with a restaurant from the folk who operate the Brasserie Zedel, so we had to have a try. The Colony can’t be missed with its central location almost immediately on entering through the art deco doors of The Beaumont. As I walked through the American Bar into the restaurant I was encouraged by the dark wood walls and red banquettes with photos and artwork working hard to create that jazz age era. This would have worked really well if some jazz had been playing but the absence of any sort of music left a slight emptiness in the atmosphere. I should confess, we were visiting on the last day of the soft launch so drills were still in the background no doubt dealing with last-minute snagging and waiters weren’t allowed to flambe at the table until the various regulatory requirements had been met. The service was clearly in the test phase with friendly French staff keen to help but sometimes having to double check what certain things on the menu were. Nevertheless, service was welcoming and professional. The menu offers a range of British-American dishes, nothing exceptional but all fine for such an establishment. Prices are on the high side for what you get. I ordered a kedgeree which was unlike any I’ve had before but in a positive sense. It had a strong curry flavour to it which worked for me though the portion could have been a little more generous. I hit jackpot ordering the chocolate marquise for dessert which was outstanding. Certainly can’t complaint about portion size here – a huge square of gianduja with a nutty ice cream. The tea came in a beautiful art deco silver pot which easily carried four cups so it seems it’s just the main dishes that are more carefully portioned out. I was actually enjoying my time at the Colony until he pointed out it felt dead. I normally leave it to him to say what he thought but once he pointed it out, I did sense something wasn’t working. The space had a slight old man feel to it (I think it’s going for the old school gentleman’s club vibe). I still think a bit of Nina Simone would have solved that concern. Still, given the price versus what you get and where you are, there are better options in town.
He
said: On the day that we went I can’t say that I found much to get excited
about by Colony. It’s, in effect, glorified diner food, or Classic American, if
you’re feeling generous, and served in a grand-ish deco space. I don’t get it;
who is this for? Is this a socially-acceptable alternative to McDonald’s for
timid or home-sick American package holiday makers who can’t deal with jellied
eels and other ‘authentic’ British delicacies? The silver-haired diners filling
the room when we went definitely suggest people looking for comfort food; but
maybe that’s the demographic to expect at brunch. It was lacking any buzz, and
feeling awkward, like the jarring combination of food and setting. We went
during soft-launch, which took the edge off; I would have been in a foul mood
had I paid full price for my mac & cheese, mushroom & spinach hash, and
baked Alaska. Still, given the location and the august backers, I’m sure Colony
will fill up with Bright Young Things convinced that they are at the epicentre
of gilded and ironic cool.
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