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Saturday 4 July 2015

Heddon Street Kitchen, 3–9 Heddon St, London W1B 4BE

Heddon Street Kitchen, 3–9 Heddon St, London W1B 4BE
www.gordonramsayrestaurants.com/heddon-street-kitchen/
04/07/2015

She said: I’d been wanting to go here since the opening was trailed but he had decided he didn’t like Ramsay so I was surprised when we walked in for a pre-theatre dinner on my birthday – especially after a slap-up birthday lunch. I’m pleased to report – he was wrong and admitted he was wrong to be anti-Ramsay. Having replaced a previously unforgettable noisy drinking/dinng spot in the foodie Heddon Street, Ramsay’s space is an open, smart but relaxed dining room with cosy banquette seating. The menu offers a good range of options but with limited time we went straight to mains. My fish was succulent and delicious and I wasn’t about to pass up the chance to have a second desert on my birthday so ordered the chocolate tartlet which was just amazing. There was a lovely gesture when staff brought out a second chocolate tartlet with a candle and birthday greeting for me; I’m not sure why they hadn’t just done this with the first tart and even for me another round of pudding wasn’t going to succeed in staying down if I were to try to hoover it up so staff obliged with a doggie bag which he clung to for me during a less satisfying West End ‘comedy’. Heddon Street, very much like Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen in St Paul’s, is a great spot for great food at expected prices for an eatery of this calibre and somewhere I will definitely go back to. Yum.

He said: She'd wanted to try this Ramsay joint for a really long time so, on a special day, I chose to display my legendary thoughtfulness, park my irrational antipathy for Ramsay, and treat her to a surprise visit. But I was definitely more surprised than she was: I actually liked this one, despite starting from a very low base of expectations. I suppose that in previous expeditions, foraging through Ramsay's vast food empire, I'd liked the food well enough, but found the portions stingy and the vibe generally too wannabe sophisticated. Two words you'd never use to define the English character are 'miserly' or 'aspirational', so I never really clicked with the Ramsay thing. But Heddon Street knocks out good portions of really good, interesting British food that's not over-elaborate, in a sexy (is that British?!) and cool but comfortable setting, at a fair price - what more do you want?! The location is also very convenient, being tucked away in a little oasis of calm just off Regent Street. Heddon Street may not be the flashiest Ramsay gaff, but it's definitely my favourite. By the way the cocktails are excellent and under a tenner, so this is a good all-rounder!

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