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Wednesday 27 June 2012

Briciole, 20 Homer Street, London W1 4NA


Briciole, 20 Homer Street, London W1H 4NA
13/05/2012
www.briciole.co.uk/restaurant

She said…I read that a local pub had been turned into a neighbourhood Italian so in an effort to support local business we dropped in for a weekend lunch. Set on a corner near the edge of Marylebone, Briciole has a welcoming, casual feel. Wooden floors, a deli counter at the entrance which you pass by to enter an open, contemporary dining space with exposed brickwork, lots of windows to let light in and dark wooden furniture. The concept seemed focused on smaller dishes so we ordered a mix of cheese, vegetable and bread-based dishes. The breads were disappointing and stale to taste (not great for an Italian with a focus on ‘fresh’) – I had gone for a bruschetta with aubergine and cheese, and the goats cheese, walnut and beetroot salad was surprisingly plain – lumps of hard beetroot and a few bit of tasteless cheese. The saving grace was the tagliatelle with artichokes which was simple but the pasta well cooked and the flavours of the artichoke worked well. At £33. for 6 small dishes and a medium plate of pasta the prices were okay but I wouldn’t be rushing back to Briciole unless I was in the immediate area. It’s a nice enough setting but the food was a let down – plain, edible but unmemorable.

He said… I don’t really see what all the fuss is about. Yes, Briciole is right on trend with the small plates formula and gastro-pub vibe. But for me Italian food is simple dishes made with the best, freshest ingredients. I couldn’t shake the feeling that some of my dishes had been prepared earlier and in some cases  microwaved.  Either that or there simply wasn’t much love coming out of the kitchen. But the owner/manager is clearly passionate and hopefully he will crack the whip. It would be a nice addition to the neighbourhood, if it worked.

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