Chiltern Firehouse, Chiltern Street, London W1U 7PA

Chiltern Firehouse, Chiltern Street, London W1U 7PA

14/04/2014

http://www.chilternfirehouse.com/

She said: You can’t open a magazine without Chiltern Firehouse being raved about. When our old Fire brigade was turned into ‘the place to be’ and every celebrity seemed to have passed through in its first week, I was apprehensive about booking this latest local addition. But for the greater good of Adventures in Scoffing I called, booked the first table available (a month away), put on a pretty frock and heels and walked down the road and into this now unrecognisable, gorgeous building. I was expecting pretension, affected service and food, being given the ‘oh, you’re nobody’ table and feeling like a spectator at someone else’s party. So I was delighted and elated to find that from the moment I booked to bidding the uniformed doorman good night, Chiltern Firehouse was absolutely lovely. Service was friendly, efficient and professional. The food was original, good portions and reasonably priced for such a joint (£100 for two including drinks). The table we were given was a good one, at the heart of the main eating area, with cosy cushioned corner seating. The room itself was interesting. For me, the rustic-cum-industrial feel didn’t quite do it in the glamour stakes. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a bright, smart, comfortable room and I love that it avoids the deafening chatter that so many spaces generate whilst still being buzzy but the ceiling looked like exposed insulation and it had a refurbished stable feel. But that’s probably just me. More importantly  the food. All the reviews go on about the crab donuts; the praise is well deserved. My mushroom and courgette risotto was a deep, electrifying green and just amazing. The dark chocolate tart to die for. I even chose well in the cocktail department with a sweet, citrus martini. Yes there were a few ‘names’ dining but all very understated and looking around, it was nice to see a mix of people enjoying a Monday night out. I did ponder why I had not seen any of these faces in my neighbourhood and how many were destination diners versus locals. But looking forward to coming back when the weather warms up to enjoy the stunning outdoor, enclosed terrace.

He said: Objectively there is nothing to dislike about the Firehouse, starting with the nicest bouncer imaginable and finishing with a very reasonable bill given, the quality and the location. To pick-off a few negatives [since there’s plenty of gushing praise out there anyways] the bar area is a little cramped, and the entrance into the dining room is an awkward dog-leg leaving you unsure whether to turn right or left. Otherwise it’s pretty much all good. The handsome design cleverly hints at the building’s past (ceiling detail made of chopped-up firehose, etc.) and makes the room feel open, like an extension of the fantastic outside terrace which will definitely be the place for sundowners this summer. And there’s a whole variety of tables to suit every need and personality quirk, including a long counter along the open kitchen for the Masterchef fanatics, and a row of actual tables overlooking the magic a little distance away for the more sensible foodies [where I will book next] who want the buzz of the kitchen but also to talk to each other. The food is faultless, as you’d expect of top perro Nuno Mendes, ditto the cocktails, and the service is very efficient without being hurried: no-one was nudging us to turn-over the table at the end. So why did I leave silently ruminating, as if solving quadratic equations in my head? I’ve never been to a restaurant before where I so clearly got the vibe that this was the place to be; everyone there obviously knew it too. Firehouse is a spit away from where I’ve lived for 10 years, but it’s so slick, and the hipness so palpable that I felt thousands of miles away: it felt much more powerhouse L.A. than laid-back Marylebone. But that shouldn’t stop you booking: this place is great.