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Sunday 23 December 2012

Simpsons-in-the-Strand, 100 Strand, London WC2R 0EW


Simpsons-in-the-Strand, 100 Strand, London WC2R 0EW
23/12/2012

She said: This British eatery and part of The Savoy Hotel, has been around for over 170 years. Originally a chess and coffee house, the ‘Grand Divan’ dining room serves as a trip back in time with oak panelled walls, chandeliers, high, stuccoed ceilings and a piano playing American classics (although the depressing song from ‘Les Parapluies de Cherbourg’ was playing when we were seated). Waiters are dressed in ‘proper’ waiting attire and tables are laid exquisitely. Cheekily I discovered after that there is a set menu but you need to know to ask for this…So we chose off the a la carte. I opted for an Ocean Trout with came with a lobster sauce on lobster mash; the side of spinach I ordered was a good accompaniment. As we did not order starters we were given an amuse bouche which was a nice touch. My trout was soft and juicy and the sauce complimented it perfectly. I created some room in my stomach for pudding and opted for the chocolate mousse with stewed cherries. This pudding was delicious – high quality chocolate all the way through with bitter-sweet cherries that offset the chocolate taste perfectly. Alongside I had a piping hot latte – just the way I like it, which also came with a plate of various biscuits. Simpsons-in-the-Strand is an institution that I recommend making time for. With pre-theatre menus also on offer there’s plenty of variety in choice and price and it serves as a timeless escape from the chaos of London.

He said: Hands up if, like me, you occasionally get bored by the endless striving for novelty and the Sisyphean race to win the gold medal in `Cool’. Simpsons is the perfect antidote. For the past fifteen years I’ve lived in London just the name was a turn off, enough to quicken my step walking past countless times without ever looking in. What a mistake! The fact that it has barely changed in the 100+ years it’s been opened is exactly what’s so appealing, so comforting about this place. The room is cathedral-like, vast, double-height, wood-panelled, deep upholstered booths line both sides, chefs criss-cross it pushing roast trolleys about, waiters uniformed in various styles based on seniority, etc. The food is pure comfort, the only concession to tradition made for vegetarians (stuffed Romano pepper with courgette flowers). You are guaranteed to get echoes of Jeeves and Wooster, and all sorts of connotations of England of Yore. On a Sunday the piano player is in the corner bashing out all the guilty pleasures. It’s just wonderful. As you’d expect there are a lot of older gentlemen wearing club ties, but on a second visit I happily saw that the booth next to ours was filled by Bright Young Things. Even if, as perhaps they did, you go to indulge some knowing irony, you will walk out delighted by the tradition. A bit like watching Kate and Wills get married on the telly.  

Wednesday 28 November 2012

Ping, 180 Earl’s Court Road, London SW5 9QG


Ping, 180 Earl’s Court Road, London SW5 9QG
28/11/2012

She said: Having been to Bounce a few weeks earlier this would always be compared in its ping pong/dining/drinking experience. On first impressions there was some unnecessary ‘cool’ ticks like bouncers at the door and over-trendy waiting staff but once we were seated in Ping – a more casual trend-image-seeking versions of Bounce, it was actually a rather enjoyable experience. The Noci E Pera Pizza I went for was very good and complimented nicely by my Espresso Martini and the bonus here is that the ping pong is free to play, though there are fewer tables than Bounce and they are close together. My ping pong had improved since Bounce which helped the whole experience and I wouldn’t let the bouncer and initial club-like feel put you off this otherwise fun, alternative night out – also cheaper than Ping at £30 for two this time including alcohol!

He said: Having moaned that Bounce was pricey [see below], we then found Ping on the opposite side of town. It’s free to play, and the food and drinks are cheaper. She will confirm that I never admit I’m wrong but, in this instance, I guess it’s not all about price. There’s no question that Bounce is the true temple to table tennis. Ping is more of a trendy bar with tables, but the formula still works. And there’s something about the tables being fewer and much closer together that actually makes it more social, and more likely that you’ll end up hanging-out with a bunch of new people. Unless you’re Type A and go postal with all the balls from other tables interfering with your game. Stick with Bounce if you want to deploy your killer volley six foot back from the table.

Saturday 24 November 2012

Hawksmoor, 5A Air Street, London W1J 0AD


Hawksmoor, 5A Air Street, London W1J 0AD
24/11/2012

She said: I had previously known about Hawksmoor as a strictly meat-eater’s domain so when I heard that this new West End opening also specialised in fish I wanted to see what the whole Hawksmoor buzz was about. Sitting above Regent Street in a long horizontal Art Deco dining space, entered through an easy-to-miss side door on Air Street, Hawksmoor felt elegant, comfortable and smart. We were seated in a u-shaped banquette near the middle of the room so could survey the room and its diners comfortably. Service was attentive without being fussy. I went for the set menu at £25 for three courses. I had the shrimps on toast to start which was a juicy, garlic soaked concoction, followed by a whole Royal bream with a side of mushrooms which again was cooked to perfection and melted in the mouth. To finish I had the lemon tart which was perfect but also dug into his peanut butter shortbread with salted caramel ice cream which he ordered as my back-up! Overall I enjoyed the Hawksmoor experience. I thought the food, service and setting was good but it needs to be busy to have an atmosphere otherwise it could feel a little soulless and cold. I would certainly come back.

He said: What I like most about Hawksmoor is the back-to-basics feel to it; not to the space, which is distinctly opulent in that pared-back art deco way, but to the food. There is no over-elaboration; the menu is short, and every dish focused on simplicity, allowing each of the few ingredients involved to sing out. So my Caesar salad was the classic, without the modern bells and whistles, and my trout was visibly a trout, eyes and all, for me to hack away at. My only disappointment on the food front was stale/tough croutons in the salad, which is a major issue in a dish of just four ingredients (plus dressing). Service was easy-going but efficient, in keeping with the formula. For me the only false note was in the interior; I am a big sucker for art deco so, in theory, I should have loved this place, but the fluorescent light just killed the vibe. Before writing me off as a ponce you just go see for yourself. Like me you’ll probably walk away thinking ‘that was nice’, but with so many great restaurants in London it might be a while before a repeat visit. Somehow this recent opening is already on the map for tourists, so make sure to book.

Saturday 17 November 2012

Bounce, 121 Holborn, London, EC1N 2TD


Bounce, 121 Holborn, London, EC1N 2TD
17/11/2012

She said: An intriguing place anonymously situated in the basement of a building along Holborn, Bounce is a ping pong heaven. You can rent a ping pong table for 30 minutes or longer in a trendy, club-like setting with a restaurant and bar alongside. We had our choice of tables in the chic, darkly lit restaurant which overlooks the dozen or so ping pong tables. I ordered the Wild mushroom pizza which was delicious – good size, garlic- soaked mushrooms in a truffle oil; the side salad was a let down – a few measly leaves on a quarter plate but for something different, this ping pong, eating-drinking combo is a fun, smart and alternative London dining/entertainment option. The bill for two mains and non-alcoholic drinks came to £44. Not the cheapest pizza on the block but worth the experience.

He said: this is another winner from the guys behind All Star Lanes. In many ways it’s an identical proposition, but with wiff-waff instead of bowling. According to the Bounce PR machine, the place is sited in the very spot where the noble sport was invented so, if you’re so inclined, descending the steps into this vast basement space can have a pilgrimage vibe to it. Once you get passed the table-booking process, a little clunky on our visit, you are confronted by the really awesome sight and sound of a dozen or so tables in a winning modern-retro-Americana style, with a solid mix of mainly post-millennial music filling the space (dj at weekends); the dining area is at mezzanine level up a few steps at the back, giving a great view over the whole scene. He and She have an 18-year long Pong rivalry, so we charged-up on carbs (the menu is mainly nice thin-crust pizza) ahead of the big duel. I loved the whole thing, the only thing I can fault really is the pricing. I wish it was a little cheaper and I’d be there all the time. Clearly I’m in a tight-fisted minority – this place is a huge hit already. Go: you will love it too.

Tuesday 13 November 2012

Aubaine, 31 Dover Street, London W1A 4ND


Aubaine, 31 Dover Street, London W1S 4ND
13/11/2012

She said: I had noticed this new addition to Mayfair and having never been to the Aubaine chain which had caught my eye in other parts of town (Chelsea, West End) I thought it was time to give it a go. I was not disappointed. This is a classy joint with a sophisticated yet laid back French café feel with food to match. The service was attentive and in fact when they seated he and I separately at separate tables (not having realised we were one party having arrived at different times) they took our deserts off the bill!

I opted for main and desert this time with my main being a goats cheese tart which was the right balance of all things, followed by a ‘Dulce’ tart which I had chosen from a plate of amazing looking options presented by the waiter at my table. I really enjoyed the whole dining experience and would recommend Aubaine equally for a romantic meal, business deal or ladies lunch. The total bill came to £53 for two courses plus coffee. About what you would expect to pay for the location.

He said: I always thought of Aubaine as a small-plate type of place, so I really had no expectations about this one. And Aubaine’s frontage takes-up a tiny patch of Dover Street, so I certainly wasn’t prepared for the surprisingly large and comfortable dining room at the back. Maybe this is why I like this restaurant so much – it was all so unexpected. The food was French-bistro-meets-Ottolenghi: fresh, simple, light and tasty. Service was swift and attentive. The pricing was spot-on. If it was a car this restaurant would be a Volvo: top quality and not time wasted on flash. In aspirational Mayfair there’s really not much like Aubaine. This is a great place for a laid-back meeting,  business or otherwise. I’m looking forward to going again.

Sunday 14 October 2012

Bombay Palace, 50 Connaught Street, London W2 2AA


Bombay Palace, 50 Connaught Street, London W2 2AA
14/10/2012

She said: Following a refurbishment we wanted to see whether this Hyde Park Indian was any good. Situated on the corner of Hyde Park Gardens under a newly developed residential block, Bombay Palace can be easy to miss. The refurb has seen a more contemporary design with marble floor and dark furniture in a cool, calming room. We were seated at banquettes at the edge of the room and were the first to arrive for lunch but the place quickly filled up with what seemed like mostly locals.
Being where it is, this is not your local, cheap and cheerful curry house – so though the menu was extensive (and we were immediately disappointed to be told what we were ordering was not available) the prices are higher than they should be. I did enjoy my food – a mix of delicious Indian vegetables with rice but to me, Indian food is not something that improves the more money you pay so at £47 for two vegetarians (with no alcohol) this is a pricey affair not justified by location. One for corporates I would say.

He said: It’s definitely fair to say that Bombay Palace is an institution. Since it first opened years ago, branches have sprung-up all over the world. But, equally, others since then (e.g. Cinnamon Kitchen) have shown that upmarket Indian is about more than just high prices. If India Palace reminds you of mummy-ji’s  cooking, or of your first experience of ‘proper’ Indian food, then you’ll love it. For me if you moved it from W1 to E2 it would probably go out of business if it didn’t reel-back the prices big-time. The cooking is fine if you live nearby and don’t fancy walking to Roti Chai, or cabbing it to others, but anyone who loves Indian food with know many better options.

Monday 3 September 2012

Lima, 31 Rathbone Place, London W1T 1JH


Lima, 31 Rathbone Place, London W1T 1JH
03/09/2012

She said: Peruvian, why not. This place is easy to miss tucked away near the post office sorting office. You enter a bar-like narrow area but this stylish South American restaurant opens up into a lovely sky-lit contemporary dining area. There’s a choice of a good value set menu (three courses for £20) or a la carte. As I was craving ceviche which was not on the set menu I went for the ‘sea bream ceviche with white tiger’s milk, sweet onion skin and inca corn’ – a fancy description set expectations which were surpassed. Zesty, juice flavours accompanied by some corn nuts were the perfect entrée. I followed this with a halibut and corn fritter like concoction which again did not disappoint; original flavours and healthy but not huge portions. If I hadn’t filled up on fruity breads and a very strong pisto bloody maria I would have made it to desert but more reason to come back. Service was relaxed but friendly and the fellow diners were equally relaxed and a mix of well-heeled older couples and oddly younger Japanese student-types. The a la carte came to £68 – including alcohol. Would definitely come back but probably going for the set menu second time around.

He said: eating here is a really refreshing, sensory experience. The space is intimate (ie small) but decorated to great effect in a fairly neutral beige and grey palette highlighted by flashes of colour from the glass-wear, cushions, etc, and an abstract mural on the back wall. Very stylish. When the food arrives you realize that the room actually works as a canvas against which the gorgeously presented food can stand out. Peruvian cooking is fairly new in London, so there’s a certain old-school excitement to ordering foods that include lots of ingredients you can’t quite place, and flavours you can’t quite imagine. Like when galangal and kholrabi were novelties, back in the days. Soon we’ll all be blasé about tiger’s milk and huacatay. I devoured my tiradito and my delicious vegetarian stew which included half a dozen things I’d never eaten before. Prices are at the higher end, starters and mains averaging at £ 8 and £20, but it’s worth it. Lima is fantastic, I can’t wait to go back.

Sunday 2 September 2012

The Thomas Cubitt, 44 Elizabeth Street, London SW1W 9PA


The Thomas Cubitt, 44 Elizabeth Street, London SW1W 9PA
02/09/2012

She said: I wanted a ‘pub lunch’ so we hit this upmarket gastro joint in Belgravia. There’s a busy, noisy (or atmospheric depending on your viewpoint) downstairs dining area but we went for the calm, smart dining space upstairs which was more intimate with portraits of fish on the walls. The menu offers a good selection of various pub dishes so I went for the fish pie which came with a salad. As fish pies go it was good but fish was sacrificed for more potato topping than was needed. Still I cleared my plate. He ordered a nice fruit juice cocktail but had rushed me in my drinks order so I made him have mine while I drank a lovely apple, mint and pear juice. Given the number of bakeries in the area we didn’t stay for desert although they did look good. Thomas Cubitt is part of a wider group of Gastro pubs in the area (we’ve previously reviewed Orange) and offers smart but relaxed dining at reasonable prices. A good choice if you’re on the lookout for some gastro-‘pub’ food.

He said: In case you’re wondering it’s pronounced Q-bit (I asked). I’m glad I didn’t bet on that because I would have guessed the other way. This gastro-pub is very much in the mould of all the others owned by the same group (The Grazing Goat, The Orange, etc), but the emphasis is much more on `gastro’ than `pub’. If there’s a line between gastro-pub and informal, noisy English restaurant, then the Cubitt is pretty damn close to it. It’s very nice, just like the others, though I much prefer The Goat.  I’m not sure there’s much that distinguishes this from any other good gastro, other than that it’s in Belgravia. Go if you’re in the neighbourhood, otherwise I’m pretty sure you’ll have something similar near you.

Saturday 18 August 2012

Honey and Co, 25a Warren Street, London W1T 5LZ


Honey and Co, 25a Warren Street, London W1T 5LZ
18/08/2012
http://honeyandco.co.uk/

She said... I was in the mood for some middle eastern food and had read about a little restaurant in Warren Street run by former chefs of restaurants I have enjoyed so off we went. At the unassuming end of Warren Street, this little café/restaurant has a certain charm with homely cakes on the counter and jars of various foods on shelves. The changing menu was well catered for vegetarians with a number of mouth watering dishes. The friendly staff and chef made us feel very welcome and we ordered ambitiously as one often does on an empty stomach. We waited in anticipation...and waited…and waited…and then watched numerous customers who had arrived after us receive their food so we chased ours up then waited…and waited…after chasing again we were presented with 4 of the six mezze dishes we ordered which included a tomato salad, falafel and the highlight – a heavenly fig salad with soft goats cheese that melted in the mouth; it may sound like nothing to read but it really was perfection on a plate. After we finished, the fifth dish arrived – a courgette and crispy rice creation which was okay. It’s only when we got home that we realised our sixth dish never arrived but we had still paid for it thanks to the hand written, illegiblebill. Each dish averaged at around the £7 mark which was reasonable and the food is definitely worth the visit. It’s a shame that the friendly team just weren’t on the ball when it came to service (and remembering your order) – especially in a restaurant of around just 20 covers. They’d been open for 11 weeks when we visited so it really should be past those teething issues. If they can get that bit together, it’ll be a fantastic place for good food with a good vibe.

He said... The Euston road is the busiest road in London, and probably one of the most polluted, judging by how many air-quality monitoring stations are dotted along it. But just one road over is Warren Street, and Honey and Co where you can find some of London's healthiest and freshest food. And it really is all about the food here; the space is small and lo-fi but clean and inviting. The cooking is of the Mediterranean stripe made popular by Ottolenghi in the last few years, and here it's even less fussy, if that's possible, and stripped down to dishes that each allow its few, superfresh ingredients to sing out. For me the outstanding dish was the salad of figs with soft goat's cheese and pistachios. I cannot imagine ever having a better one. The tomato salad also obviously used top notch toms, and demonstrated the same passion in the kitchen for cooking with the best that's available at the time. We ordered Imam Bayaldi which, sadly, never came - the dish, a real classic of the region, translates roughly as 'the imam fainted', which is what he did when he tasted how good it was. I'm sure Honey and Co's interpretation would have been as legendary, but I only noticed the oversight after we left. Service was more chaotic than you would expect for such a small place, and the type of cuisine: in the Middle East restaurant service is one of the few things done with efficiency that would be the envy even of a German car factory. Lunch for two came to £40 including a delicious rose flavoured iced tea and more food than you can remember. This will definitely become a regular, especially if the breakneck pace of restaurant openings in London slows down a touch.

Friday 17 August 2012

Brasserie Blanc, 35 The Market, Covent Garden, London WC2E 8RF


Brasserie Blanc, 35 The Market, Covent Garden, London WC2E 8RF
17/08/2012
http://www.brasserieblanc.com/

She said… I heard that Monsieur Blanc had taken over the space where Chez Gerard used to be in Covent Garden market. I had never visited the previous space as I was fundamentally opposed to their charging a ‘cover price’ but since this was no longer in place and I was curious about the Blanc chain of restaurants, I thought the restaurant atop the market was a good one to try. Alas, expectations fell short. The room itself is pleasant although the outdoor terrace is probably the place to be on a pleasant day. The menu was promising with a wide selection of dishes to suit most palates. And the prices were what you think you should be paying but never do in such a place. I went for the set menu which offered two courses £14.99. I started with a leek, potato and egg salad which was tasteless and stodgy. I followed this with a gruyere and onion tart. With this being a French brasserie I was expecting a light, thin pastry base with juicy caramelised onions and a subtle creamy cheese. Instead, a thick quiche-like concoction which looked like it had been reheated. Again, stodgy and flavourless. I had been planning to have desert but decided to cut my losses and went with him to a new bakery on Chandos Street. I don’t know if the location means the tourist factor is in play (i.e. food for people you’ll never see again so screw quality) but I would have expected more from the Blanc brand.

He said… If no one had told you that Blanc had taken over this place from Gerard then you would never have know the difference.  Both are functional and nice enough, and priced well. But if a sudden craving for good, affordable French food came over you, then this would not be the first place you'd think of; for that see Zedel, below. The setting is pretty nice though, as it's on the upper level of Covent Garden, overlooking the opera house. The terrace space has got to be one of the best in London; I'm not too sure about the part that's glazed, which can feel like a greenhouse. I enjoyed lunch (the company was good) but the Blanc name does raise expectations. For instance, my pea soup made a good first impression, but I got bored with the too-thick, samey texture, and found myself wishing that the portion was smaller, which really doesn't happen often these days. But for £15 for two courses you really can't grumble. And if you avoid the weekends, and its swarms of day trippers, then Covent Garden is actually a nice, convenient place to meet for a sneaky, extended lunch on a sunny day.

Thursday 9 August 2012

Brasserie Zedel, 20 Sherwood Street, London W1F 7ED


Brasserie Zedel, 20 Sherwood Street, London W1F 7ED
09/08/2012
http://www.brasseriezedel.com/

She said… I visited this location many years ago when it was the Atlantic Bar and Grill so was intrigued to hear of it’s reopening as a French brasserie by the folk behind the Delaunay and Wolseley. The initial descent down to the basement is a bit off-putting, especially as on our arrival there was no sign of life upstairs and we guessed our way down the stairs to the restaurant lobby but everything changed when we entered the brasserie. The dining room is a stunning space with backlit stained-glass windows giving the impression of sunlight shining in, high ceilings, gold-leafed relief on towering columns and art-deco features such ceiling with its mix of frosted glass, and brown-gold light fittings. The layout is quintessential brasserie style with banquettes and chairs and starched table cloths in an open plan setting, with an eye-catching bar along one side and a charming boulangerie with ‘designer’  bread in a corner, complete with chef wearing large, pointy hat. What is a wonderful contrast to this glitz is the highly affordable menu which is packed with lots of choice. My starter remoulade for example was only £2.95 and yet a generous portion was presented. Many of the main courses are around the £10 mark (there is even a separate vegetarian menu where mains are below this price). We went for the sauerkraut with seafood which was for two people since it was a departure from the usual. A massive platter arrived which could easily feed four and alongside the picked cabbage contained salmon, haddock, prawns and seafood which I has asked them to hold off on but they forgot. There were also boiled potatoes and it all sat in a creamy sauce. It was delicious and despite it not looking like we’d eaten given the amount left in the platter after trying to ingest as much as possible, the drawback was that I had no room for the desserts I had been eyeing on the menu (which  again were a steal at around the £3.50 mark). We were so impressed by the setting, food, prices and service (good waiter to customer ratio) as well as a buzzy atmosphere of fellow diners that we are going to come back to celebrate mum’s birthday in a few weeks.

He said… This one is a winner. Since going with ‘she’, I have already been back once, and we're booked again for a lunch with the in-laws. That probably tells you all you need to know, but I'm guessing that a two-line review is not what you're looking for. Maybe you know this, but Zedel is on the site of the old Atlantic, a legend on the 90s London scene. As you walk down the stairs you see that a lot of the Deco design has been kept (it must be listed) even though it doesn't quite work with the turn-of-the-century vibe of the main room. I also remember the same strange, stale smell which the Atlantic stairway had; this is not the nicest opening to a meal, but I guess unavoidable being so far under ground, and not an issue once you reach the well-ventilated main room. This definitely has the wow factor - mainly because you don't expect such a large, opulent space so deep down, and because you do get the feeling of having been transported both in place and time. For me, it all had a strong, really pleasant echo of going out to eat when I was a kid in Brussels. Maybe it was the starter (celeriac remoulade) and the main (a seafood sauerkraut) but mainly it was the unfussy, accomplished professionalism of it all, which reminded me of that time when food was food, taken seriously but not a religion. Zedel pushes all my buttons:  my favourite restaurants have a distinctive vibe, and serve well-prepared food that doesn't necessarily rewrite all the rules, at a friendly price. Zedel ticks all the boxes, especially on the value front: though I don't mind spending money, I'm really a cheapskate at heart. Where else in Westminster can you get a starter for £3.50? I simply could not believe it, and had to ask the waiter if the pricing was introductory (it's not). This place is guaranteed to be full at every service, but luckily there's a good allocation for walk-ins. I can't wait to go again and again and work my way through the menu. By the way, Deco fans be sure to  grab a martini or negroni in the amazingly authentic American Bar; and night birds be sure to check out some of the acts in the cabaret.

Saturday 28 July 2012

34 Grosvenor Square, London W1K 2UD


34 Grosvenor Square, London W1K 2UD
28/07/2012
http://www.34-restaurant.co.uk/

She said: 34 is a restaurant you make time for.  It’s easy to walk past the entrance on South Audley Street but that would be a mistake because as you enter you will find a sophisticated, inviting space of a bygone era. I may be laying it on thick but this is a classic, luxury market eatery with excellent service and food (and prices) to match. It’s somewhere you’ll want to take your time, people watch and savour and takes you into a different world removed from the hustle of nearby Oxford Street and Park Lane. I started with a watermelon and goats cheese salad with honeyed walnuts with was full of flavour and a perfect warm up. For mains I had a perfectly creamy risotto which melted in the mouth. I made way for desert and opted for the chocolate bombe which looked amazing but I actually preferred his peanut crunch (snickers-like pudding) as the chocolate bombe was a case of design over substance for me, with a tasty chocolate shell but a mish-mash of popping candy and ice cream inside. I like my chocolate puddings to have more chocolate. But putting desert aside, I would come back to 34 – especially for a special occasion or if someone else is paying (£106 for two).

He said: 34 is just what you expect of a Mayfair grill: it's well-appointed, efficient, and expensive. The clientele is also representative of the well-heeled, truly cosmopolitan denizen of the neighbourhood, which makes for good people watching. From my point of view it was fine; there was nothing to dislike, but there was also nothing to love - it is just another decent restaurant. Being vegetarian I'm sure that I missed out on 34's USP - amazing grilled meats, and this must be what you might just love about it. It won't be the room which, being long and narrow, is somewhat unmemorable. But what I ate, a cold soup of various green veg, tortellini, and a desert which tasted like a really great, posh Snickers bar, was all really well accomplished, and really nicely plated. But throw in a cocktail each, and the bill for lunch for two tops the £100 mark. There are so many amazing restaurants in London in this price bracket; I just don't think 34 delivers enough to stand up to them. I guess the rent is high in that neighbourhood... It must be why the management feels compelled to charge for cover; a practice which, this day and age, is barely forgivable even in a Spanish beach resort. Do leave a comment if you've tried the grill and it's out of this world, as some say.

Thursday 19 July 2012

Mari Vanna, 116 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7PJ


Mari Vanna, 116 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7PJ
29/05/2012
http://www.marivanna.co.uk/



She said…To celebrate his recent success in a Russian related project at work, we decided a Russian meal was in order and headed to Mari Vanna. Set in a Knightsbridge classic townhouse building, I loved the fancy grandma’s living room feel of the dining room. Heavy on lace and stuffed with Russian ornaments, jars of Mari Vanna produce and crockery with sparkling chandeliers and cheesy Russian music this place couldn’t help but charm me. On sitting down we were given a complimentary plate of delicious breads, dips and savoury snacks which could have been a meal in themselves. Given the occasion we didn’t want to be modest in our ordering but probably should have reviewed the number of dishes we chose when the waiter visibly took a sharp intake of breath as he finished writing down our order. Nevertheless, the starter pirozhok with seabass – which was a sort of seafood pasty, was tasty, and the beetroot salad was sweet and compulsive eating. To follow I had to order the salmon blinis; until now I thought this involved tiny little canapé-like pancakes with a bit of salmon on  - but not at Mari Vanna. Three, beautifully thin, large pancakes came alongside a plate filled with delicious salmon, accompanied by pots of chopped onion, sour cream and grated egg which I proceeded to make into a roll and thoroughly enjoy but quickly realising I was full (despite him having half) and the mains were still to come. A huge plate of pelmeni filled with seafood arrived which was similar to tortellini. It was delicious but as his main arrived at the same time we knew there was no way we were getting through the mains. I stuffed more of these fish-filled pasta shapes into my mouth than I had room for but it was worth it. The total bill for two came to £100 including two glasses of Prosecco which is on the high side but we could and should have ordered half the amount and still have been full. Mari Vana is a relaxed, smart and kitschy dining space with great service and an extensive menu, with excellent choice of Russian dishes. Prices might be on the high side but more canny ordering will make a difference – and in our case would have allowed room for dessert which looked good but I didn’t want to risk being unable to stand if I had tried to get any Russian pastries into my mouth after our eating marathon.

He Said… Quick: what do you think of when you hear ‘Russian Food’? Right, babushkas dishing out stodgy slop in a concrete bunker. This is the stereotype that Mari Vanna is up against, yet it still manages to impress. The atmosphere is wealthy pre-revolutionary dacha: a bike and pictures of granny hung on the walls, chintzy everything everywhere – the kind of cosiness that very few Russians would remember, but many might actually long for. But don’t be fooled by the lo-fi vibe: Mari Vanna is sited almost right next door to One Hyde Park  - the most expensive residential block in London, and therefore the world; the rent ain’t cheap, and neither will your meal. But the staff makes parting with your money so pleasant that you almost don’t mind. Anyone who’s ever been to Russia will find this kind of pleasant service totally alien. And sure enough our waiter was French, as I found out when I tried to order in Russian (her condition for us booking the place). But the manager was definitely Russian, and definitely friendly when showing me around the rest of the place. The menu is extensive and covers all the classics pelmeni, vareniki, blini, etc., all of it familiar but prepared with finesse – like a cutely painted Trojan horse delivering you the many thousands of calories needed to fight the long Russian winters. If you go, then remember that the food is meant for sharing. The portions were authentically large, which I didn’t expect in this part of town; had I known then lunch for two (including prosecco) would have cost £70 instead of £100 (ouch!). Not a give away, but I’d go back: it’s the kind of food and experience that you can’t get in many places in London.

Tuesday 17 July 2012

Pollen Street Social, 8 Pollen Street, London W1S 1NQ

Pollen Street Social, 8 Pollen Street, London W1S 1NQ
19/05/2012


She said…We found ourselves hungry for lunch in Mayfair after visiting a gallery and remembered that we wanted to try the Pollen Street Social. After glancing at the menu at the entrance I wanted to go somewhere else (mains start at £26) but then he noticed the set price menu of three courses for £25 so we went in. After you wander through a smaller room where the bar is located you enter a beautiful, fine dining room with soft leather banquettes, white table cloths, bulbous lighting and a sense of calm. We were one of the first to be seated for lunch and were presented with the a la carte, a special vegetarian menu and the fixed price menu. After we ordered, we were brought fresh, warm breads and an amuse bouche which consisted of delicious green olives and some sort of cod-based buttery spread which was compulsive. For my starter I chose an asparagus salad with tomatoes in a warm tomato juice; when it arrived I didn’t know whether to eat it or frame it – the presentation was stunning with edible flowers and the salad presented as a work of art. It tasted fantastic. For my main course I ordered cod which came with a caper sauce, smooth mash and some thick honey which combined perfectly again satisfying with every spoon. We were then invited to the ‘desert bar’; which involved sitting at a bar where we could watch the various restaurant deserts being prepared. Even though we had gone for the cheaper set menu option we were given a palate cleanser of passion fruit and lime ice cream, followed by a pineapple granita. At first I thought they hadn’t realised we were the set menu folk but then they took our order and I had the most beautifully presented chocolate pave in an orange sauce which again was perfect, accompanied by a big pot of tea. Complimentary warm, mini sponge cakes filled with some sort of honey or toffee came with the bill and despite being completely full, I enjoyed every mouthful. Pollen Street Social is a wonderful place. The food, setting and service all came together to deliver a great dining experience. The glass kitchen was fun to look into and see the army of staff at work. I would only say that next time I would stay at our dining table for the deserts. The bar was fun to watch but much busier and less comfortable than the laid back dining area.

He said… Wow. This place is really, really good. There had been so much buzz about it that, I confess, I had mixed feelings about going; yes, I’m that kind of guy, who goes right if someone says left. We ate here on a whim: no booking, no prep; just happened to be walking past, hungry, and (me, at least) looking pretty shabby. The hostess didn’t even blink at my t-shirt and flip flops, and took us straight to a good table (away from traffic/toilet) in a bright, quietly opulent but laid-back room. I remember this joint when it was a pub; they’ve thrown a lot of money at it, that’s for sure. Not that you would know it by the bill; Pollen Street Social turns out to be remarkably good value (lunch came out at about £35 each). Plenty has been written about the food here, so I’m not going to add my drop to that ocean of ink. It’s all true: it is very, very good. Very thoughtful combination of flavours, the freshest, seasonal ingredients, presented really well. What was really memorable for me was the generosity of this place; not necessarily the portion size (the food here is about flavour rather than fill-up) but the complimentary bits that came all the way through the meal including desert; and just the generosity of spirit overall. This is a place without pretence and attitude; it’s all about good food and good times. The only false note for me was the desert bar: you have the option to relocate here to mix things up a bit (and to free the table for the hordes desperate to eat here). On the face of it this is a good idea: you get to watch your desert being made for you, and look through the glass wall into the kitchen. The drawback is that you are right next to the kitchen, with lots of traffic. But it’s easily avoided – just say no thanks if asked, and keep your precious table. Pollen Street Social is definitely one of the best bets in London right now.

Wednesday 4 July 2012

Boundary, 2-4 Boundary Street, London E2 7DD


Boundary, 2-4 Boundary Street, London E2 7DD
04/07/2012
http://theboundary.co.uk/

She said… My birthday celebrations culminated in dinner at the Boundary, a basement French restaurant in a converted Victorian warehouse which forms part of a designer hotel development by the Conran empire. The restaurant space has an industrial, chic, smart and yet romantic feel; the combination of dark interior with splashes of colour work well. Although the room is open plan, more private seating areas are located around the room and we were seated at an intimate table in a recessed space towards the middle of the dining room whilst being able to look over the whole dining space. Having eaten my weight in cake earlier in the day I opted for the set menu kicking off with an artichoke salad which was full of flavour – perfect. I followed this with the sole which was less inspiring – it looked pretty - it was rolled up into parcels with designer vegetables around but I found the fish a bit chewy. Overall however, the Boundary restaurant is a lovely space with good service and with the right menu choice and a greater appetite, a smart, classy choice for an evening out. I would be keen to try the rooftop restaurant in the right weather and some tea and cake or a light lunch in the café on the ground floor – both of which also look good.

He said… Think of a Conran restaurant and your mind's eye will probably conjure one of the vast, buzzy places that made his reputation last millennium. Boundary is at the more intimate end of the spectrum - just the right place to wind down after a day full of activities to celebrate her birthday. Many moons ago Shoreditch celebrations used to involve warehouses full of happy people, and mind-blowing light shows. Now that Conran has colonised, you can eat from a tight, well-executed French menu in the basement, buy focaccia and gastro fare in the ground floor epicerie, grab a drink on the impressive roof terrace, and catch some zs in the hotel in between. The dining room is romantic in a way you would not expect from an East London basement: frescoes on the ceiling, smartly-dimmed lighting and under-street arches turned into  little alcoves. It all puts you in the right mood for your meal which for me is what this place is about. It's about the experience, the meal fitting  into the rest of your day exploring an interesting part of London, rather than the food which was the usual solid, Conran standard. Don't miss the roof terrace.

Savoy, Strand, London, WC2R 0EU


Savoy, Strand, London, WC2R 0EU
04/07/2012
http://www.fairmont.com/savoy-london/dining/

She said: We don’t normally review ‘teas’ but an exception has to be made for the Savoy. He took me here as part of my birthday treat. Straight off – I must say that tea at the Savoy should be on everyone’s ‘things to do before I die’ list. Absolute perfection. From the moment we arrived and the happy, engaging cloakroom attendants took our coats we were in paradise; this paradise being a beautiful, glamorous, comfortable, ‘never want to leave’ parlour-cum-living room with high ceilings and ornate furnishings, with a pianist turning out classics from Fitzgerald, Sinatra and company from a birdcage-like enclosure and fellow tea-takers sharing the same pleasure in every second that passes in this wonderful place. The way it works at the Savoy (and how high-tea should work everywhere) is that you pay one set price which entitles you to repeat teas, sandwiches, scones and mini-cakes. The tea list is exhaustive and the sandwiches (which included salmon, basil and tomato, egg and mayonnaise and cheese and pickle) melted in the mouth and despite knowing I should pace myself I had to dig in to a scone. The service was immaculate – friendly, smart and attentive; after a certain passing of time the waiters would replace your tea pot with a fresh hot one and you could of course change the type of tea at any point. When we had our fill of sandwiches we were presented with a picture box of mini cakes on a silver tray. We divided and conquered picking different ones each containing mixes of creams, fruit, chocolate and meringue. When we were just about ready to explode and despite spreading things out over a few hours we were offered a hefty slice of cake which I forced on myself determined to eat my weight in pudding. Oh, and I forgot to say they preceded the cake-fest with some rocky road with a candle in and ‘happy birthday’ scribed in chocolate sauce to mark my unforgettable day. Happiness is tea at the Savoy.

He said: It's just as well that, as far as tourists are concerned, the Ritz has the best rep for afternoon tea. That means that locals can keep the Savoy, the true champ in this category, for themselves. This really is the way it's meant to be: flawless from start to finish, walking that tightrope between exclusivity and hospitality, generous and attentive, all in a really handsome, classy and comfortable setting. Tea can sometimes be twee and girlie, but not here, where the decor is a contemporary twist on 18th-century exoticism. It's a room in which to linger, which we did, trying out the various  teas brews from the extensive list, and endless cut sandwiches and sweets. Skip lunch, go early and spend the afternoon.

Wednesday 27 June 2012

Briciole, 20 Homer Street, London W1 4NA


Briciole, 20 Homer Street, London W1H 4NA
13/05/2012
www.briciole.co.uk/restaurant

She said…I read that a local pub had been turned into a neighbourhood Italian so in an effort to support local business we dropped in for a weekend lunch. Set on a corner near the edge of Marylebone, Briciole has a welcoming, casual feel. Wooden floors, a deli counter at the entrance which you pass by to enter an open, contemporary dining space with exposed brickwork, lots of windows to let light in and dark wooden furniture. The concept seemed focused on smaller dishes so we ordered a mix of cheese, vegetable and bread-based dishes. The breads were disappointing and stale to taste (not great for an Italian with a focus on ‘fresh’) – I had gone for a bruschetta with aubergine and cheese, and the goats cheese, walnut and beetroot salad was surprisingly plain – lumps of hard beetroot and a few bit of tasteless cheese. The saving grace was the tagliatelle with artichokes which was simple but the pasta well cooked and the flavours of the artichoke worked well. At £33. for 6 small dishes and a medium plate of pasta the prices were okay but I wouldn’t be rushing back to Briciole unless I was in the immediate area. It’s a nice enough setting but the food was a let down – plain, edible but unmemorable.

He said… I don’t really see what all the fuss is about. Yes, Briciole is right on trend with the small plates formula and gastro-pub vibe. But for me Italian food is simple dishes made with the best, freshest ingredients. I couldn’t shake the feeling that some of my dishes had been prepared earlier and in some cases  microwaved.  Either that or there simply wasn’t much love coming out of the kitchen. But the owner/manager is clearly passionate and hopefully he will crack the whip. It would be a nice addition to the neighbourhood, if it worked.

Lime Wood Hotel, Beaulieu Road, Lyndhurst, Hampshire, SO43 7FZ


Limewood Hotel, Beaulieu Road, Lyndhurst, Hampshire, SO43 7FZ
09/05/2           
www.limewoodhotel.co.uk

She said…We had been looking forward to our mid-week break in the New Forest for a while.  The peace and natural beauty was to be the idyllic escape from the daily grind. We picked the Limewood Hotel – a stunning, boutique residence with such exquisite rooms, social spaces, health facilities and service to make you never want to leave. When we arrived, it was soon apparent that the constant rain meant we’d be involved in more indoor activities that we had anticipated so we literally decided to make a feast of it.

In the afternoon we took our lunch in the ‘Scullery’. A casual yet stylish room with a country home feel, the menu offered a good range of British fare and reasonable prices. I was drawn to marmite mushrooms on toast which I accompanied with a goats cheese salad which was delicious. The desert menu was less engaging so we decided to get on some mountain bikes and brave the weather to take tea in a random place several miles away – but that’s a different story. (The following day we went back for lunch and the fish pie was very good although a big serving: satisfying blend of cream and cheese for the sauce and tasty smoked fish with a fluffy potato topping).

In the evening we dined in the main restaurant which was a both classic and contemporary dining room, comfortable and chic. The service was immaculate and everything I ate was beautifully presented and perfectly produced. The Cornish Mackerel starter was a delicious opener but South Coast Gunard and Plaice stole the show and was perfectly roasted and poached with a beautiful pesto and gnocchi (thought I gave most of this to him since I am not a big gnocchi fan). The atmosphere in the Dining Room was sophisticated without being pretentious and is the sort of space you can take your time in. The prices are central
London fancy restaurant prices without being silly – and worth it given the outstanding experience.

He said… There is no way that I can be objective about The Dining Room, given that it is at the Limewood Hotel – for my money the best English country hotel right now. It is so good that I really don’t want anyone else to know about it, and go and ruin it. So I will simply say that I had the wild smoked salmon to start, and the  wild garlic and foraged flowers risotto to follow. I know they’re genuinely foraged because the following morning, cooling-off outside after a run, I saw one of the sous-chefs picking herbs and flowers in the garden. I suppose that, compared to the hotel, the restaurant was just really good, as opposed to great. As in most country restaurants the vibe was a little muted, and the waiting staff was too young to match the confidence displayed in spades by the kitchen. The food and room were both excellent, but nothing you haven’t experienced in any number of really good restaurants; the plating, however, was genuinely striking and beautiful. We were there mid-week so we didn’t see many, but this place deserves to be full of appreciative locals.

Saf, Whole Foods Market, 63 Kensington High Street, London W8 5SE


Saf, Whole Foods Market, 63 Kensington High Street, London W8 5SE
07/05/2012

She said…After appearing as interested bystanders for an episode of Antiques Roadshow who were filming at Kensington Palace, we headed for Saf in the former Barkers Building which I had read about as a choice vegetarian restaurant. Indeed it was. Set on the first floor – annexed from the wider food court, this smart, bright, modern restaurant offers a great variety of vegetarian dishes which offer more creativity than the usual vegetarian suspects. We shared a spinach and date gyoza to start which was delicious and I had a pumpkin risotto which was made with pearl barley and included fried sage and cinnamon which was also very good. The portions were satisfying and the flavours smooth. There is a wide choice of healthy juices and cocktails (I recommend the Prima Vera) and deserts – although I didn’t have enough room to try one. I would definitely go back to Saf; it’s a great place for a relaxing lunch with an excellent vegetarian menu at reasonable prices (total bill £36 for one starter, two mains and two drinks). I recommend a table by the floor to ceiling windows.

He said… Another soggy day in London. If you’re looking for comfort there really is no better place than Whole Foods on Kensington High Street, the ultimate temple to gluttony, with its endless aisles stacked high with all sorts of goodies, all familiar but with a California spin that makes the most mundane totally irresistible. If you have no will power then best leave your credit cards at home. I’d been there a few times before, but never twigged that there’s an upstairs food-court. She had Saf on her radar, but I had no idea what to expect, which is actually a nice way to eat. It reminded me of a meal I had in a Japanese restaurant in Brussels, where you simply put your faith in the chef and let him bring out whatever is best that day. This definitely ramps up the expectation and turns up the taste buds to 11 when the food actually arrives. Anyways, today I picked but the menu was so unfamiliar – mostly raw vegan cooking – that it was a similar feeling for me. I went for the vegan Banh Mi (the bloody version is ubiquitous in London this year) with a side of  Kimpura (aka carrot ‘fries’ in a sesame and agave marinade), with a start of gyoza. If you’re anything like me you hear the word ‘vegan’ and you just roll your eyes back and utter a groan of frustrated boredom. But this is the second vegan place I’ve been to that totally rocks (the first is Gobo, in New York) and delivers really flavourful, satisfying food. The only thing I can fault, really, is the mall food-court feel of the place. But if you’re not bothered about the ‘special place’ factor for once, and just want good, unusual food that you’re not going to find anywhere else, then Saf’s the spot.

Tuesday 26 June 2012

Bluebird Café, 350 Kings Road, London SW3 5UU


Bluebird Café, 350 Kings Road, London SW3 5UU
26/06/2012
http://www.bluebird-restaurant.co.uk/

She said: After a trip to the movies we were hungry and wanted something quick and easy for dinner. Having wandered into a few duds (local Byron said we had to wait for a table and a pizza place nearby said they were too busy despite empty tables) we liked the look of the Bluebird Café which had a chic diner feel to it. Boy were we wrong. We should have known to turn around when no-one bothered to seat us and we had to seat ourselves, collect our own menu, go up to waiting staff who seemed to be ‘hanging out’ and give our food order and then find them again to pay our bill (and yes they did still charge service). I haven’t witnessed such awful or should I say lack of service in a long time. I ordered a gorgonzola, pear and walnut and chicory salad which was as described but the spectacular lack of service and some cackling fellow female diners combined to ensure I never return.  

He said:  We happened to be in the area, hungry, and remembered a nice meal in the restaurant upstairs. We should have walked on. The food was fine; sometimes you just want a meal, not an epiphany. But the service was by a long shot the most indifferent I've experienced in London. Don't reward the owners with your hard-earned cash. The King's Road is not short on alternatives.

Friday 22 June 2012

28-50 Wine Workshop and Kitchen, 15-17 Marylebone Lane, London W1U 2NE


28-50 Wine Workshop and Kitchen, 15-17 Marylebone Lane, London W1U 2NE
22/06/2012
http://www.2850.co.uk/

She said…Having opposed planning permission for outdoor drinking at this new local (and succeeded) we didn’t want that to stop us trying this wine bar-cum-bistro one early Friday evening. The menu has a good selection of standard European dishes – though describes itself as serving ‘French bistro style food’. Feeling nostalgic, I started with a prawn cocktail which was as to be expected: prawn, lettuce and a cocktail dressing – fine. The onion tart I had for mains was more memorable – thin, light pastry with a decent topping of caramelised onion and a simple side salad. This left room for desert; as expected I opted for the chocolate tart which again was fine but not outstanding probably due to a lower grade quality of chocolate. The service was friendly and the room -  which is an open, wood-furnished space around a central bar with warm lighting and lots of windows is a comfortable space to relax and socialise in. This is a reliable local bistro, probably good for wine lovers with food that is good enough at mid-range prices (£60 for three courses each plus one glass of wine for him).

He said: I was a little apprehensive going into this new restaurant at the back of our place: the previous week I  sent the council their way for a friendly chat about noise. Will revenge be on the menu? Evidently not, because this all went swimmingly. 28-50 is some cryptic reference to wine (the latitude at which vines grow) which I'm sure is lost on almost anyone expect the wine buffs who come here to hold up the bar and savour the tipple. And while the restaurant is small and intimate, the bar lends it a really pleasant buzz, and overall 28-50 has the elusive feeling that awesome special secret place that's only for you. I had a gazpacho and then couldn’t resist an Icelandic fish stew just to see what it was about. Both were packed with flavour and very fresh tasting. Desert was an almond cake which I also really liked. At £60 for three courses for two this is definitely a find. Go, just remember to be quiet on the way out!

Saturday 16 June 2012

10 Greek Street, London W1D 4DH


10 Greek Street, London W1D 4DH
16/06/2012
http://www.10greekstreet.com/

She said…Wow. I had read the glowing reviews but there have been many a glow for the barren, skinny looking dining rooms around Soho that have left me underwhelmed. But not 10 Greek Street which is absolutely deserving of its praise. Taking a chance on not reserving we turned up for an early lunch on a Saturday afternoon and found ourselves in a narrow but bright and chic space with industrial style décor. The menu was written on blackboards on either side of the room and prices were very reasonable – especially given the creativity and quality of everything we ate. The complimentary fresh bread was fresh and contained various mixes of herbs and fruits and I kicked off with mackerel which came with a blueberry jelly and horseradish sauce which I could spread on some toasted bread; the whole thing was bursting with flavour. To follow, I had the Hake which was a succulent piece of fish in a dish surrounded by fennel, dates and fresh, crunchy cucumber. All the flavours of this main dish complimented each other to create a unique tasting experience. Despite a lack of room I made way for a chocolate terrine accompanied by a pot of tea. The high quality chocolate was creamy and thick and melted in my mouth. I could not believe what a special place Greek Street turned out to be – the food is spectacular and the setting, though intimate (it was full when we were leaving) feels friendly and comfortable. One to come back to – especially given the changing menu. Ten out of ten.

He said... What a nice surprise this was. We'd been to enough of those trendy no-reservation Soho joints to know not to expect more than a lot of hot air. The aesthetic here is much the same, you know the kind: boho minimalism, tunes played through a turntable, etc. But there the similarities stop. The blackboard echoed the passion that was wafting out of the kitchen, and the vibe was genuine, mellow and warm. I kicked things off with a rigatoni with chili and crab, and followed with a really good hake. What can I say other than eat early, like an American, to make sure to get a table. This one really works, though I'm not sure how: it came to just £58 for three excellent course, and there are not many covers. You get a great sense of discovery eating here. Save it for one of your know-it-all friends and blow them away with your inside track on foodie London's beating heart

Tuesday 5 June 2012

Cote, St Christpher’s Place, London W1U 1ND

Cote, St Christpher’s Place, London W1U 1ND
05/06/2012
http://www.cote-restaurants.co.uk/

She said…We noticed this new restaurant opening near us on our way to the Jubilee celebrations and discovered they were providing free dining as part of staff training before the restaurant formally opened so we booked for the next day ready to give our constructive feedback. The deal was, we could pick one main and one dessert and mine and his had to be different; we also got a flat bread with cheese and only had to pay for our drinks. We had the full a la carte to choose from. The flat bread was delicious – thin, perfectly cooked and juicy. For main I ordered the roasted seabass which came with braised fennel and a champagne butter and tomato ‘concasse’. The portion of fish was generous but the sauce was forgettable. The side of minted peas and glazed carrots were good accompaniments. For desert I got the chocolate fondue with vanilla ice cream along with a generous sized cup of latte. Cote passed the test of bringing dessert and coffee together as requested and the coffee was hot (not luke warm) as requested which was impressive since most restaurants fail in this test/request. My fondant was delicious – warm, tasty chocolate, soft and chewy sponge but I couldn’t help but keep shoving my spoon into his tarte tartin which was amazing – so we ended up ‘sharing’ our desserts (i.e. I ate much of his then mine). As for the trainee staff – service was good, attentive but not fussy. As we were responsible for providing feedback – maybe our plates could have been cleared more quickly and our table was right by the cash register, route to the toilets and where the food comes out so a bit busy but we will definitely be going back to this smart, value-for-money chain (even when not eating for free) which has something for everyone on the menu and great desserts. The seating in the front half of the restaurant with windows onto the passage by Christpher’s Place is particularly good. I do like this dine free for feedback concept!

He said... Chances are that there's a Cote not far from where you live, so I'm not going to say much about this one, other than go. If there's a high street chain restaurant out there better-value than Cote then I haven't been there yet. The setting, menu and price are all bang on. They could easily charge more for what they serve up, and still get away with it. The fish pie was as good as anything Sheekey's might serve up, and the tarte tatin is top notch.

Friday 1 June 2012

Pret a Diner, 50 St. James’ Street, W1F 9JP, London


Pret a Diner, 50 St. James’ Street, London
01/06/2012


She said…Having somehow got onto the appropriate mailing list, he was sent an e-shot invitation to this ‘pop-up’ restaurant posing as an uber-cool, exclusive dining experience in the heart of Mayfair. Yes it may be £75 for said experience but the promise of something completely different that tantalises the various senses with Michelen starred cooking seemed absolutely worth it. Unfortunately, the reality proved absolutely not. If I had to pick one word to sum up Pret a Diner it is GREEDY. Yes the capitals are to emphasise me screaming loud and clear for the avoidance of doubt. The initial impression was very positive; a chirpy chap greeted us warmly at the door, he gave us a tour of the first floor dining space – a contemporary, buzzing room transformed from a former private members’ club in a beautiful neoclassical building of the many that exist in Mayfair – which the capitalist entrepreneurs of Pret a Diner had seized on during its dormant period. We were informed we would be eating in the ‘celebrity’ dining room – a side room to the main one but nevertheless a trendy yet romantic space; but almost immediately the hopeful anticipation was squashed like a big rotten tomato. A young girl put some ‘amuse bouche’ down and muttered something; we asked her to repeat what it was but quickly realised she just wanted to get the whole waitering experience out of the way. She graced us a few times during the meal with equal eloquence. We were presented with the set menu of various meat dishes; we had checked beforehand that fish or vegetarian options would be available and this was confirmed but it took a series of pass the parcel like experiences from one waiter to another before anyone would admit to actually knowing how to obtain any knowledge of what the possibilities were. Finally a waiter said he could tell us but needed someone else to listen to him telling us because he was new. For £75 we would be getting: a salad of lettuce and tomato – which bore a strong resemblance to the instant salad in a bag you can get from Tesco; followed by pene pasta with overcooked vegetables in a bland tomato sauce; followed by another pasta dish – this time chunks of lasagne sheets with unidentifiable overcooked vegetables in a bland cream sauce.  If we wanted desert we had to pay extra. For drinks – I asked if there were cocktails and was told if I wanted one I had to go downstairs to the bar to order it, which foolishly I did. The bar staff were indifferent, took £15 from me for a tiny glass of fizz with honey which I had the pleasure of then having to carry back up the stairs to my table (they did still charge me service for the drink). At the end of the meal when one of the several changes of waiters we had asked how our meal was and we said disappointing – explaining that pasta followed by pasta was not very creative he responded ‘I like pasta so I would have been happy’. Now there’s customer service. In a competitive world of dining I love seeing entrepreneurs combine their love of food with creativity to offer something different but Pret a Diner is a complete farce – greedy people offering sloppy food and useless service with absolute delusions of grandeur. Greedy, greedy, greedy. This is a pop up that should just pop off.

He said... This was a swish pop-up with pedigree which you can't even go to anymore, so I'm going to be as lazy as the organisers and give it a one word review: disappointing. Big time.

Saturday 19 May 2012

Cinnamon Soho, 5 Kingley Street, London W1B 5PF


Cinnamon Soho, 5 Kingley Street, London W1B 5PF
05/05/12
http://www.cinnamon-kitchen.com/soho-home



She said…I was craving some Indian food and had been looking forward to the Cinnamon experience since reading the menu online. Having read a review I knew beforehand that the plates would be small so to order a good mix of dishes. We arrived via the Kingley Street entrance though later realised there is another ‘main’ entrance which is prettier from Kingley Court. We didn’t pay much attention to the setting as we were both starving and so got stuck in ordering a mix of 5 small dishes which consisted of crab and vegetable balls, tandoori salmon, mushroom on toast and mathri with a roasted aubergine dip. Except for the mathri (which were essentially corn-like fatty snacks with a mis-matched sweet and rather chunky dip) and the vegetable balls which were ok, the other plates were fantastic: soft crab in a crispy batter with a perfect sauce, succulent salmon which melts in the mouth and a sort of curried mushroom that was over too soon. For ‘mains’ I went for a pea and cauliflower kichri but they got the order wrong and brought me a fish one instead. I didn’t want to wait for the correct order so took the fish one which was lovely – and was pleasantly surprised when they did not charge me for this on the bill for getting it wrong, exemplifying their already excellent customer service. I recommend the sweet lassi to drink which complimented the whole meal. It was only when we had digested our food that I took a proper look around the room and did wonder why a bit more effort didn’t go into the design. The dining room is fairly stark and lacks personality with dark wooden furniture and generic art in frames; a little more style would have been the icing on an already delicious, Anglo-Indian cake. Prices? Mmm, bit steep given the size of the dishes but worth it.

He said… If I didn’t know that this was part of the Cinnamon Club Group then I probably would not have tried this excellent restaurant. It doesn’t have much of a street presence, and the space is small and dark and really quite dull. But its daddy has a big reputation, so I was excited when I stumbled across this place on a walk around town. There are a lot of Indian restaurants in London (most of them Bangladeshi, it turns out), and some of them serve-up incredibly good food at an unbelievably low price. But Cinnamon is one of the few that does something really distinctive. The basic premise here is the best of British fused with the best of Asian. Not since the 60s would you see an Indian menu that included ‘safe’ options like mushroom on toast, or seafood pie. Except that here they’re not a concession to fearful diners, but instead a chance to reinvent and even improve on classics, bringing them bang-up-to-date for kids raised on exotica, like tamarind or garam masala. You will never eat a better mushrooms on toast than you will here. And that’s the reason to come to Cinnamon; the space may be uninspiring, the prices seemingly high, but you can’t get this kind of inspiring cooking in many other places. The portions are on the small side, so order more than the usual one starter one main.

The Grazing Goat, 6 New Quebec Street, London W1H 7RQ


The Grazing Goat, 6 New Quebec Street, London W1H 7RQ
21/04/12
http://www.thegrazinggoat.co.uk


She said…He had been wanting to try this local gastro pub for a while so I finally acquiesced. Having looked at the dining room upstairs I preferred the space downstairs which had more atmosphere, felt more open and allowed in more light. I placed myself strategically next to a roaring fire as we were in the middle of London’s ‘wettest April on record’. The prices on the menu reflected it’s Marylebone locale – higher than they needed to be but fitting with the gastro-pub scene in the area. I ordered a refreshing plum, pear and mint juice which, at £4 was indeed fresh and decided to go for the warm, smoked salmon salad which I really enjoyed. I had a side of Portobello mushrooms which were luke warm and forgettable. He seemed to enjoy the place more than I; not that I didn’t enjoy it but it seemed like a regular, modern ‘gastro’ pub to me which I wouldn’t avoid going to but wouldn’t actively go back to. Pleasant local.

He said… I bet you this is the kind of local everybody really wants in their neighbourhood. There may not be any hipsters sulking in the corner, or z-listers pulling each other’s extensions out. But the digs are quietly opulent, and the food’s good. It was early when we got there, so it’s hard to say what the clientele is on an average night, but it all felt solidly middle-class. Exactly my bag. I ordered the vegetable pie, with a side of chips, washed down with a Pimm’s (it was slightly less rainy than usual that day). The crust was all that it should be: golden, light, and crispy; the fillings was a mix of veg now lost in the mist of time, but stewed in a creamy but light and flavourful sauce. Delish. I would have it again. I picked at one or two of her mushrooms, which were disappointing, so I guess you do have to tread with care. Price was high for a pub, but worth it.

Sunday 13 May 2012

Blue Elephant, The Boulevard, Imperial Wharf, Townmead Road, London, SW6 2UB 14/04/12

Blue Elephant, The Boulevard, Imperial Wharf, Townmead Road, London, SW6 2UB
14/04/12
http://www.blueelephant.com/london/

She said...It had been a while since we had been in the Fulham area so I suggested we explore the development around Imperial Wharf and try the new location for Blue Elephant since we have happy memories of visiting the old site in Fulham Broadway about 15 years ago! Imperial Wharf is a mini city of shiny new residential buildings around the Thames in a very civilized, orderly fashion with a handful of smart restaurants on site. The first impression of Blue Elephant was very positive; the interior is based on the Palace of Bangkok and  had a grand, imperial feel with dark woods and classic yet contemporary furnishings. We were seated in the central main room - the best location, which overlooks the lower level and the Thames. The menu was vast but we had to decide quickly to throw caution to the wind once we saw the prices and to 'treat ourselves'.

You can choose dishes from different themed sections of the menu (such as Thai cooking of the past, the present and the future)...Before our meal (and after wolfing down the complimentary prawn crackers), we were presented with a lovely amuse bouche which set the tone of the meal to follow. I started with the classic fish cakes which were the finest I had tasted in a long time, followed by the black cod with tamarind sauce which was succulent with mouth watering flavours. I also enjoyed nibbling at some of what he had which was also very good. Our jasmine tea came in the most beautiful elephant shaped tea pot and the service was attentive but not fussy.

The prices were hefty though not extortionate (about £80 for two times two courses and a pot of tea) but I really did enjoy the blend of perfect food and setting. I would come back for a special occasion but the prices mean it can't be a regular treat...

He said... The first thing you notice about Blue Elephant is the setting: at the foot of glass tower blocks near the water -- about as close as you get to Dubai living in London, minus the sun. Push the door and the analogy continues: it's like stepping into another world. Fans of Blue Elephant's previous incarnation in Fulham will not be disappointed.Have a good nosey around when you go; the large space is divided into zones with different feels, on different levels. Upstairs you get nice views of the river. There's lots of features, including a giant carved figure decorating the bar. There's also a teaching kitchen where you can pick up tricks to amaze your friends; when we went, soon after Blue Elephant first opened, the school was still being built. The food was top notch, as you'd expect from this restaurant; I had khang khao phuak, which is, basically, spiced minced mushrooms in pastry, followed by massaman veg curry. All very good, but it is very expensive. For me Thai food is like Indian food -- it is basically cheap food, and if you're going to charge a bomb for it, then you really need to be doing it not just very well but in a way that you just can't get anywhere else. The food was awesome, but there's lots of excellent Thai restaurants in London doing it just as well for much less. You're basically paying for the location; it really depends how much you value that. I'd gladly go back, but if someone else was paying.

Sunday 15 April 2012

Soho's Secret Tea Rooms, 29 Greek Street London, UK W1D 5DH. 15/4/12

Soho's Secret Tea Room, 29 Greek Street London, UK W1D 5DH. 15/4/12
http://www.sohossecrettearoom.co.uk/



She said...Hidden on the first floor above the Coach and Horses pub (and entered by walking through the pub counter which is all very 'speakeasy' in feel) is a 40's-styled tea room, complete with vinyl record player turning out musical classics like the 'Singing in the Rain' soundtrack. There is fine bone china, frills, lace and floral dressing on display and when seated at our table for two, with crisp white table cloths, I felt a million miles away from the chaos of Soho. We opted for the full afternoon tea however, after the excitement of the setting, the tea was far from fulfilling. At £17.50 each, quite frankly it was a bit of a p***-take. My understanding and experience of afternoon tea at other venues is that you get free top ups of everything - tea, cakes and sandwiches but here is one round only. I may have been okay with this if what I had blew me away but instead of the fine, delicate pastries I've had at many other a tea room, here the offerings were heavy, stodgy sponges lacking either sophistication or nostalgia. You get a couple of sandwiches (egg, cucumber and salmon - two triangles of each), a thick, brick-like walnut cake slice and unmemorable fairy cake plus a fairly dry, luke-warm scone with a butter-like clotted cream and just enough jam. I had been really excited about this place as I am a tea and cake fiend but, given the other customers (mostly American), this one is clearly aimed at non-returning tourists. For a few pounds more, I would trade in the pursuit of the cute 40's room for a really classic English tea at the better known establishments.

He said: You've probably walked past this place a dozen times and never noticed it: it's right above legendary Soho boozer The Coach and Horses. But knowing where it is doesn't mean you're there yet: first you have to get passed the bar staff at The Coach, which on personal experience can vary from sweet to surly. Tell the barkeep you have a booking, he'll call upstairs to tell them you're here, and then tell you to get on with it, come behind the bar (nice!) and climb upstairs. Good start! All very 'speakeasy meets Ms Daisy'. The place certainly makes a good first impression: 33rpm croaking standards in the corner, lots of light pouring-in through the windows (you're on the first floor, after all, not all that common), doilies and mismatched china and table-wear everywhere. The atmosphere is spot-on, and contrasts delightfully with the sin and decadence raging outside on most nights. We both ordered the high tea. Cakes, sarnies and tea were all fine, nothing special really, but high tea is more about the ritual than the food, so I was keeping an open mind. My only bone with this place is that you only get one round of everything and at £17.50 a shot it's just too expensive for what you get. This place is on to something, and almost nailed it; extending some generosity that I'm sure most would not avail themselves of, would go a long way towards covering-up its flaws and making this a special spot.

Sofra, 18 Shepherd Street London, Greater London W1J 7JG. 9/4/12

Sofra, 18 Shepherd Street London, Greater London W1J 7JG.
9/4/12
http://www.sofra.co.uk/sofra_mayfair.htm

She said: We were off to see a movie at the Curzon Mayfair so wanted a nearby lunch spot and since I had a 2-for-1 main course deal at Sofra, we decided to hit this Turkish joint. Sofra sits in the lovely Shepherds Market and though the restaurant is small, it has a warm, smart and intimate feel. On arrival our table contained a charming note introducing our waiter and promising good service (which it was) and we had a lovely table by the window. I enjoyed listening in on a conversation between a couple on an adjacent table where the man was talking about 'his journey in life' while the woman held rosary beads...But that's an aside... The menu has a huge choice. I had trouble deciding. My warm goat cheese salad was a delicious starter and arrived promptly as did the main course of a spicy fish stew which was a compulsive and juicy mix of flavours and tender fish. I really wanted to choose one of the many tempting desserts but was already at full capacity so will have to go back another time when I have spaced-out courses better. Will definitely be returning here - and a second course being free was icing on a perfect cake.

He said: Easter Monday, in a state of sugar-coma and livers groaning from the strain of processing far too much chocolate, we just felt like something light. Food from the Near East is just perfect when you want to feel virtuous -- the produce is generally super fresh, and the food mysteriously light given how flavourful it all is; sometimes it's nice to get away from cream and butter sauces. And it's where our main man Jesus hails from, so a good choice on Resurrection Day. Sofra is an old stand by -- like arguments at Christmas or rain during Wimbledon week -- you always know what to expect. The food will be good, service efficient, the wallet will remain heavy in your pocket, and you will leave happy. Not ecstatic, but happy, which sometimes is all that you should really want. And you know you're going to like it right away, because the owner, Mr Ozer is quoted on the cover: ' if you don't like it, I will eat it myself'. What more can you ask? I kicked things off with a lentil soup, which in Turkey is with red lentils and like a very thin dhal, and one of these very simple dishes that can taste wildly different and hard to get just right without cheating with a ton of salt (which doesn't happen here). I followed with spinach and chick peas stew which deftly avoided the sludge-like fate of most stews: the spinach leaves were whole, the peas kept their bite, and a very delicate tomato-based sauce which allowed the two stars to keep centre stage. There was not a crumb left for Ozer.

Anar, 349 Portobello Road, London W10 5SA. 8/4/12

Anar, 349 Portobello Road, London W10 5SA. 8/4/12
http://www.anarpersiankitchen.co.uk/about.asp

She said: Having fallen in love with Persian food recently, I had frantically searched online for recommended restaurants in London and Anar in Notting Hill popped up so I booked it for a Sunday dinner. We rode our 'Boris' bicycles to the nearest docking bay at the top of Portobello Road expecting a short walk to dinner; I would have re-thought the walk if I knew we'd be going through the butt-end of town passing crazy people talking to themselves and shouting at each other forcing us into the road to avoid becoming part of the social mix. When we finally arrived at a pretty little converted corner pub and wandered into a stylish intimate room with exposed brick on one side and gold painted wall on the other, expectations were high. The service was friendly and there was a good range of vegetarian options but unfortunately the food was underwhelming. It was all a bit bland. The pomegranate salad lacked anything Persian about it (bare mixed salad with some bit of pomegranate); I had a courgette main dish but all I remember is that it just tasted like a fried courgette. I was then gutted to have paid a gratuity on the credit card machine when prompted ('do you want to add a gratuity') because the service was friendly and prompt - only to realise after the bill had included service - so watch out for that one. Shame really as this would have been a good find if the food was any good.

He said: we each grabbed a Boris Bike and as we pedalled along Hyde Park I was really psyched for our meal at Anar. We'd been to a few Persians in the last few months and liked each one more than the last. Anar is at the butt end of Portobello Road, far removed from any cycle ports; I guess Boris didn't want to chance the vandalism. The restaurant itself is like an oasis in a concrete desert; I guess pioneering gentrifiers will only go so far. The first impression is really great -- corner site, in old pub, front painted black with gilt lettering in Farsi, lots of windows, cool interior complete with statement wall paper, and typically Persian warm and welcoming staff. We got there early, only beaten by a gaggle of Iranian women for whom this was probably a late lunch, rather than dinner. The menu read well with a good mix of familiar and unfamiliar.  I had to have Ghormeh sabzi, a spinash stew here made with mushroom, and we shared kashkeh bademjan, borani, and anar salad. All of them were good enough, but kind of 'meh, nothing special': the stew lacked the vital sour note of limes, the kashkeh had almost no walnut kick, and the anar salad used really boring, hard cheese, not the creamy feta/goat cheese you'd expect. Let's remember that this salad shares its name with the restaurant (which mean Pomegranate, by the way) -- you'd think this would be the best dish in the joint. It's a shame, I really wanted to like this one. Unless you live nearby there's no reason to go out of your way.

Monday 9 April 2012

La Petite Maison, 54 Brook's Mews, Londn W1K 4EG

La Petite Maison, 54 Brook's Mews, Londn W1K 4EG
7/04/12
http://lpmlondon.co.uk/

She said... I'd wondered past the unassuming outside many a time and wondered what all the fuss was about but 'he' said it was Sarkozy's favourite restaurant when he was in town and a highly rated French eatery so we finally made a booking for the Easter weekend. He was right. From start to finish it was perfection: The dining room sparkled with starched table cloths, shimmering cutlery, shiny mirrors at the bar, sunny yellow walls and smart waiters donning bow ties and striped aprons; the service was attentive without being intrusive; and the food was just perfect. I started with an onion tart which came on a thin, fine pastry that melted in my mouth. I followed this with a fillet of seabass which came with a crunchy artichoke topping and juicy cherry tomatoes. The side of broccoli was again the perfect accompaniment. Despite having 30 minutes to make it across town to the theatre, we had to order pudding; the only slight smudge on an otherwise shining experience is that I asked for my coffee to come at the same time as pudding (this is a recurring and ultimate test of mine for all restaurants - can they bring the pudding and coffee at the same time - after all, the bitterness of the coffee is always the best compliment to a sweet dessert) and unfortunately a delicious and large latte arrived when I had almost finished a heavenly warm chocolate mouse. However, even heaven must have it flaws. The bill (£136 for two) wasn't a bargain but I would come back here again and would recommend La Petite Maison for anyone wanting something special.

He said... I walk through Brook's Mews most days on the way to and from work, past the usually open door to La Petite Maison's kitchen, and see the gang prepping for service. It's amazing how many people you can fit into a small kitchen, and still nobody stabbing each other or similar Hell's Kitchen antics. Clearly as much space as possible was given over to the dining room, which is just as well: even on a Saturday lunch the place was packed to the gills, mostly with the well-heeled gang from far-flung lands that we hear about snapping up all of Mayfair and Belgravia. The vibe was very relaxed, no-one seemed out to prove anything about the size of their portfolio. And service was distinctly un-Gallic: attentive, genuine, and efficient. Reading the menu made me say a silent prayer that it could really all be as good as it looked on paper. It's always a good sign that you're planning your next visit before the first bite, but as most battle-hardened mothers love to say 'don't hope for too much and you won't be disappointed'. In the end I figured I'm in a Provencal restaurant, so let's see how they manage the old classic cod provencal, and I kicked things off with the beignets of courgette flowers with anchovies. These were just OK -- a little light on anchovies; I only found two. But the cod was just awesome: everyone of the component flavours was turned up to 11, intense tomato, olive, caper etc. flavours and just enough spice. I would have this dish again and again. Desert was an apple tarte fine, with the crust as described and the apples sliced very thinly. This was delicious but at £9.50 too expensive. My only gripe with the whole thing is the price, but you know that before going in, and so you go in with very high expectations which somehow these guys manage to match and even excede. I can't wait to go back. By the way, the tables are pretty tightly packed, which may not suit everyone, but this is not such a big deal now that anti-smoking law means you won't have clouds of Gauloise blown your way; there are one or two duff tables near the door.