Ceviche, 17 Frith Street, London W1D 4RG

Ceviche, 17 Frith Street, London W1D 4RG

27/05/2013

www.cevicheuk.com

She said: My preconceptions of an ‘affected’ trendy, over-hyped Soho joint were blown away following our meal at Ceviche. On entering a slightly pokey space with dining tables at a bar we passed into a bright, open and colourful dining space at the rear of the restaurant. The menu contained a fantastic choice of south American tapas making it a challenge to contain ourselves to what we could actually eat. After he said I should choose three and he would do the same we were presented with a series of mouth-watering dishes that were absolute perfection. This ranged from a juicy wasabi ceviche with excellent quality seabass to a potato cake layered avocado and ginger to a delicious wok cooked vegetable quinoa unlike anything I’ve had before. We’ve done the rounds of quite a few south American places recently and Ceviche is my favourite for overall quality and originality of food, friendly and efficient service in a welcoming dining space at a reasonable price - £50 excluding drinks. Will be back for more.

He said: sometimes you should believe the hype. There’s been a lot of chatter about Ceviche, and that, combined with the fact that it’s in Soho, was enough to keep it far down our list of places to hit. What a mistake! I can’t wait to go back already. There’s something inherently winning about Peruvian food (as we know it here, anyways) – the novelty of the flavours and ingredients would thrill even the most jaded foodie. But Ceviche adds to this an informality and authenticity that I haven’t felt in the other places, which tend to pitch this cuisine as something deluxe. But I’m guessing that a lot of these dishes are everyday things for Joe Lima. We’ll find out, as we’re off to Peru soon. It also helps that Ceviche is quite a bit cheaper than the others.

Cucina Asellina, Melia Hotel, 336-7 The Strand, London WC2R 1HA

Cucina Asellina, Melia Hotel, 336-7 The Strand, London WC2R 1HA

19/05/2013

www.asellina.com

She said: After attending a fantastic talk on Humiliation at Conway Hall we were hungry and needed to find somewhere close. I remembered this Italian in the new Melia hotel sitting at the top of The Strand. I was a little hesitant on entering to find not a single diner inside – and from the outside it looked closed probably due to the darkened windows and lack of activity inside but we decided to stay. I’m so glad we did. Asellina is a large contemporary dining space to suit any occasion. I ordered a prawn flatbread pizza which was heavenly and good value at £12. I tried some of his lasagne which was equally good. The service seemed a little haphazard or inexperienced (we were served by four different waiters – that last one proactively asking if we wanted to bill rather than the option to see a dessert menu so we accepted his forthright offer) but it is especially a great pick for lunch or a pre-theatre meal that sets itself apart from the tourist offers inside Covent Garden. As a fortunate bonus, on leaving Asellina I remembered the Melia has a rooftop bar ‘Radio’ and asked the maitre d’ if we could pop up; not only was she super courteous in leading us there, she brokered two free cocktail vouchers from the Concierge so we immediately fell in love with her. Radio has the genuine ‘wow’ factor – the lifts open into a glassed restaurant leading to a wide open terrace with magnificent views of the best of London’s skyline. We took a seat at a perfectly positioned table and I enjoyed a heavenly Martini as we spent an afternoon thumbing through the Sunday Times. Speakers poured out a slightly strange mix of tunes from perfect Sunday soul and ‘lounge’ music to over hyper dance and 80’s nostalgia. However, the experience was made even more perfect as the sun decided to shine down despite reported rain. This was a wonderful, special afternoon and we will definitely be back – both to the Italian but also to try to rooftop restaurant and enjoy more drinks on one of the best rooftops in London. But don’t tell anyone as I don’t want it to become over-run.

He said: The Melia Hotel recently landed like a futuristic spaceship of cool right onto the dull and forbidding traffic island known as the Aldwych. The contrast with the rest of the neighbourhood is pretty startling when you first step in: it’s definitely more Dubai than London, but that’s no bad thing. The dining room at Cucina Asellina was built on an ambitious scale, which on our visit only highlighted the fact that we were the only dinners. It’s a shame because it’s actually a nice open space done in a very spare style, and which would have a really nice buzz to it when full. But somehow I think this place is destined to never quite getting there -- its location on the edge of Theatre Land is that little bit too awkward. That suits me fine in a way, because there aren’t too many places to eat in the area that don’t get mobbed by tourists or that you could just waltz into without a booking. The food we had was very nice; her pizza was in fact very, very good. I wonder if it would pass the ‘Italian Friends’ test;  these people are so unbelievably fussy, but to me this tasted authentic enough for even the pickiest Neapolitan.  Service was a little tentative, but balanced out by the quality of food, setting and price: a main and drink each was £38 including service; not cheap but good value. On the way out She put us in the way of opportunity, having remembered the roof top bar; Fortune was smiling on us, bestowed comp drinks vouchers upon us, and delivered us onto Central London’s best rooftop bar. It’s called Radio, check this place out quickly before it’s colonized by the hordes of obnoxious Holborn professionals that work dangerously close. On a sunny Sunday afternoon it seemed like our own little secret spot – and we all know how short-lived that is in London.

Social Eating House, 58 Poland Street, London W1F 7NR

Social Eating House, 58 Poland Street, London W1F 7NR

18/05/2013

www.socialeatinghouse.com

She said: I thought we’d make it three for three and booked the third in the Atherton Social series. This time in Soho behind a modest, vintage frontage we entered into a smart, trendy yet down-to-earth brasserie. The front half near the bar has larger red banquette seating and the rear half has the greater concentration of seating with mustard coloured banquettes and a more industrial feel. The menu was impressively inventive. I opted for the prix fixe for my starter and main – both fish dishes: the salt cod fishcake to start was delicious but as per the name, salty; the Silver Mullet bouillabaisse I had for my main course was underwhelming due to its simplicity and felt something more was needed. I picked my dessert from the a la carte – a chocolate mouse with chocolate éclair. Again this was disappointing in that it didn’t match up to the sophistication of his dishes and dishes at the Social’s sister restaurants: it felt more like  a diner dessert with a lump of sweet mouse in an ice cream dish with a chunky piece of dry pastry (the éclair) stuffed with salty caramel ice cream that just clashed with what I had hoped would be a delicate, fluffy, chocolate éclair. Given my comments on my food, it may therefore surprise that I actually loved Social Eating House and would definitely come back. At £18 for two courses from the Prix Fixe it’s good value; the service was great as was the setting and atmosphere. It’s about picking well. He picked well and I picked at his selection well – I’ll let him have his say but he chose much better than me and every one of his courses was perfection, including an alcoholic milkshake. It averaged out at £30 each for three courses, drinks and coffees. A welcome addition to the rather mixed Soho world of dining.

He said: Having already gushed about the other two Socials I’m a little worried about sounding like a deranged fan who would gobble-up even Atherton’s toenail clippings. So I won’t say much other than I really liked it, again. From afar the Social group’s success might looked like inexplicable voodoo or mad alchemy, but it’s really pretty simple: equal parts of quality, laid-back vibe, and fair pricing. Blindingly obvious really, so it’s baffling that Atherton seems to be one of the few headliners to have seen the light. This incarnation is the most informal of the three, although the studied coolness of the boho-chic décor might be a little too hip for some. It’s so ‘on trend’ that there was even a boozy milkshake on special (it was awesome). The menu shows the trademark joyful experimentation, which made the classic comfort food even more irresistible to me: I just had to find out what spin Social would put on mushroom on toast, and mac & cheese. Well, let me tell you: the mushrooms had  been cooked in a sealed bag (cut open at your table) with cep puree which delivered a really deep, intense flavour. Mushrooms with a capital m, underlined, and highlighted. Wow. I will go back just for that. As for the mac & cheese, plenty of others have tried to ponce-up this student staple before, which invariably seems like gilding a turd; the toxic yellow, powdered cheese version might be crap but it’s still usually best. But not today, Social’s version was a real winner: no tsunami of cheesy sludge here; instead the pasta was coated with just enough of a thin yet intensely rich sauce. I have no idea what the kitchen did here, but it worked really well. £18 had never been better spent on two course before. Desert was a delicious almond sponge soaked in London honey (such a thing exists: walking home last night I saw two dudes in bee-suits bringing a hive down a ladder, on Wigmore Street!) – it was delicious. I said that I wouldn’t gush, so let me highlight a huge fault: She wouldn’t keep her fork out of my plates the whole bloody meal. Damn you, Social!

Hana, 351 West End Lane, London NW6 1LT

Hana, 351 West End Lane, London NW6 1LT

11/05/2013

www.hanarestaurant.co.uk

She said: Craving Persian food we hopped on the scooter to West Hampstead. Hana is a small neighbourhood Iranian hiding around the corner of a green at the top of West End Lane. Décor is simple, it’s the food that is such a delight and with our practice of dining in central London so often I had forgotten what ‘normal’ restaurant prices are when you move outside Zone 1. It took great restraint not to over-order mezze dishes so I stuck with a borani spinach which I scooped up with some light, warm Persian bread and I shared his Ash e Resteh which was perfectly balanced with all the right flavours of a soup that has a lot of nostalgia value for me (my best friend’s father from primary school used to make it whenever I came round to play)…For mains I had a spinach and bean Ghormez Sabzi and shared his Aubergine Khorosheth Bademjan – both delicious stews which came with fluffy rice and a cucumber, onion and tomato salad at good portion sizes. At £30 for two including soft drinks this was a lovely local dining experience with good service, great food and the sort of relaxed atmosphere that you would expect with a neighbourhood place. Hana certainly makes me want to seek out more local places outside the centre of London.

He said: Hana is a classic example of a really good neighbourhood restaurant. The cooking is attentive, the portions generous, the service friendly, and the prices reeled right back from the stratospheric heights of Central London. The presentation and setting is at the cosy suburban midway point between the usual Persian clichés of, at one end, neon lights and plastics chairs and, at the other end life-size gilt statues of Xerxes, lion fountains, gold cutlery, etc. Hana has a refreshing down-to-earth-ness which is a welcomed contrast from the feverish worshiping at the Altar of Food going on these days (but hopefully not too much in these posts). Like the famous Freud quip (‘sometimes a cigar is just a cigar’) sometimes all you want is great food without fuss and without feeling fleeced or guilty about how much you spent on it. Hana’s the place to find it. Fight the power! Support your local businesses, even if you have to take the tube a few stops further than usual.

Corner Room, 2nd Floor, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 11AB

Corner Room, 2nd Floor, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB

06/05/2013

www.selfridges.com

She said: Though Selfridges is my favourite shopping spot in London I’ve never actually eaten in any of its restaurants and always thought of department store restaurants as a pit-stop for marathon shoppers (of which I am not one). But a quiet revolution has been taking place for a while now with department stores sharing the same realisation as museums that it’s worth throwing out the school-like canteen serving slop as there is money to be made in creating dining spaces that might be destinations in themselves. So off we went to the new Corner Room in the fashion department of Selfridges – the first restaurant of the 2012 MasterChef joint winner Keri Moss. After navigating the maze of fashion concessions on the second floor to find the Corner (which turned out to be one of the last corners we looked in) a bright, art-deco space greeted us with pale blue and blonde wood tones. The maitre-d’ was apathetic to our arrival but did his job at seating us adequately. The room is a comfortable size and the atmosphere and furnishings are equally comfortable and smart. The menu offers a good choice of British fare at prices you would expect for an eatery of this kind. I do think it is cheeky when waiters in an upmarket restaurant try to ‘up-sell’ – and my pet hate in such restaurants charging for bread but asking if you ‘would like some bread’ when you sit down with the implication it is complimentary (as it is 90% of the time in restaurants of such calibre). I’m going to call this the ‘values test’ in future – places that think they need to charge a few quid for putting some welcome bread on the table are driven by the money not the passion. I ordered the sea bream which came with a red pesto which was a decent portion and good enough but the side of greens was extremely stingy. The chocolate cake was a winner although a bit too much ice cream which then melted washing out the pure chocolate taste of the cake. Our waiter must have previously worked in a nightclub or had tinnitus given his volume and was so zealous I had to hold on to my plates and drinks for fear of him whipping them away mid-meal. I’m going to be bold and say I don’t see this place lasting if my initial observations are anything to go by; Corner Room is aspirational which is misguided looking at the casual tourists and shoppers at other tables; it has the feel of being a ‘business’ above all else and although the food was largely good and prices fine (at £70 for two for two courses and coffees), the impersonal approach left me cold.

He said: as far as food goes, it would never occur to me to go to a department store, for anything more than a snack or coffee break. It’s no different than going to a hotel, I guess, but for me it’s one of those irrational things. Maybe couch time would unearth a gruesome trauma connected to the self-serve department store meals of my youth, although I do remember those pretty fondly. If any ironic, east-end hipsters are reading this maybe there’s money to be made digging-up that particular nostalgia. So, although the food was fine, The Corner is not for me. But for ladies who lunch it must be close to ideal. It’s in the world’s best department store, the room is cosy, flooded with lots of natural light, nicely decorated in a soft, retro Scandinavian style, and the modern British menu is really well thought-through: something for everybody and all of it familiar yet gently inventive. If I actually ate dead mammals I would have found it much harder to chose. And prices are pretty good too. The things I didn’t like are minor things that you expect from a new opening and which sort themselves out over time: the service was a little off, and the maitre d’ was all wrong: I don’t think I’ve ever encountered one more sullen or disinterested; this goon must’ve been filling in. I won’t be going back because of my phobia, and because it’s not really that special, but you should try it, especially if you’re into Masterchef, or if you’re the kind of maniacal shopper who gets so caught up in the spending frenzy that her blood-sugar level drops so dangerously that immediate celebrity food is required.

Plum and Spilt Milk, Pancras Road, London N1C 4TB

Plum and Spilt Milk, Pancras Road, London N1C 4TB

05/05/2013

www.plumandspiltmilk.com

She said: He had wandered into the new Great Northern Hotel opposite St Pancras Station when early for a work-related meeting in the area and had a quick look at this hidden gem of a restaurant on the first floor. On discovering it was during its ‘soft launch’ week with 50% of the food bill we quickly made a booking for the bank holiday weekend. Despite the rather mouthful of a name, Plum and Spilt Milk is a wonderful find in the developing King’s Cross quarter. Passing a rather modest, cloakroom check-in style entrance on the ground floor to the hotel, the scene quickly changed to a soft toned staircase leading to a beautiful corner room that beamed invitingly with its vase-shaped warm lighting, bright, large windows all-around, dark, polished furnishings and beautiful banquettes. The service was friendly and enthusiastic throughout. The menu offered a good range of European dishes at reasonable prices (even without the opening promotion) which I took my time over whilst enjoying a perfect lychee and chilli martini (Oriental Express). To start, I had a mushroom tart which was heavenly; melting cheese, flaky pastry and delicious mushrooms complimented each other. I had to remind myself to savour my mouthfuls as I just wanted to get as much of it as I could as quickly as I could. I dipped into his haddock soufflé a couple of times which was also a delight. For mains, I had the pan roasted cod which came on a bed of mash and I ordered a side of honey carrots. The fish was a generous portion and cooked just right and just about left me room for desert – despite again digging into some of his artichoke ravioli which was amazing. We opted for the tarte tartin for two. After about maybe 25 minutes we were presented with complimentary champagne and strawberry sorbets ‘while we wait’ which must have been to make up for the tarte absenteeism. But when the tarte did arrive it was huge and heavenly. The caramel oozed with every bite and the apples and thin pastry conspired to make you reach for more and more. The waiter was quick to heat my tepid latte on request which worked perfectly with the tarte tartin; I kept going until I was unable to lift my spoon. Because of the promotion the whole thing came in at am amazing £54 but I would definitely return and recommend Plum wholeheartedly – be it for corporate lunches, dining with friends and family or celebrations. It’s great to see the King’s Cross area getting such a fantastic, chic, delicious addition to the dining scene.

He said: Combine the parameters `Kings Cross’, `hotel restaurant’ and `outside-the-box [i.e. dumb] name’, and expectations have hit rock-bottom. So imagine my surprise when I walked away after a languorous Sunday lunch thinking that we’d just discovered a new favourite. Everything works, from the moment you walk into the gorgeous first-floor space bathed in light flooding from windows on all three sides, to the split second before stepping back out into London’s biggest construction site. Plum hits the sweet spot bang on the nose: it’s inventive but familiar, stylish but comfortable, serious but friendly, all that and excellent value too. A lot of attention to detail has gone into this place, and it shows. Things kicked off with a delicious rum cocktail [it was after all, a balmy 11 degrees outside], then I followed with a fine soufflé of smoked haddock, and artichoke ravioli served with rocket, parmesan, spinach and a sweet reduction. For once the ravioli came in a man-sized portion; full marks to Plum for that. And to finish we shared a tarte tatin, that classic desert which, like all ‘simple’ dishes of so few ingredients divides absolutely everyone about the ‘right’ way to do it. To quote Sublime, this was the wrong way but so right. Judging by the very few other guests we are way ahead of the buzz on this one, but Plum deserves to succeed, and you should go without hesitation. Let  the tourists keep Balthazar – this is much better.

Banca, 30 North Audley Street, London W1K 6ZF

Banca, 30 North Audley Street, London W1K 6ZF
[AUGUST 2013: NOW CLOSED]

04/05/2013

www.bancarestaurant.com

She said: Banca is an upmarket Italian housed in the former NatWest bank on a corner in Mayfair. We were greeted with lots of smiles and offered to sit wherever we like on entering which was both welcoming but had a slight feel of ‘wow we have customers’ to it. He wanted to sit at a table for four which I thought was inappropriate so opted for a table for two by the window which allowed me to see the whole dining room but he the frosted street window behind me…At first glance the menu seemed pricey for what was on offer but Banca also has more reasonably priced pasta and pizza dishes. For a chi chi restaurant, when I ordered some fresh juice from a long list of great options on the drinks menu I was told that only about three of the eight options were actually available – pretty poor. I decided to skip starters and ordered the risotto with gorgonzola and courgette flowers at £18. I’m not sure the blue cheese worked and the two deep fried courgettes sitting on top were an odd choice but it was fine. I had been planning on dessert but with so many good patisseries in the neighbourhood and not being blown away by the experience I decided to give it a miss. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a lovely room, friendly and prompt service and good range of options on the menu but for the price, I think there’s just too much competition to make this one worth coming back to.

He said: the Maitre d’ seemed genuinely delighted to see us, and gave us a typically-Italian warm and friendly welcome into an equally typically-Italian stylishly appointed room. Good start, I thought. Could this become our local Italian, where we rub shoulders with the Italian glitterati, and eventually house-swap with Monica Bellucci? But the magic soon slowly fizzled-out. With the menu we were told about various things that were off that day including, strangely, about half the extensive list of fresh juices. Minor, you think – but, by lunch time on Saturday, you’d expect a serious kitchen to have all the holds barred in readiness for the big bun fight on one of the week’s most valuable nights. Never mind, these things happen sometimes. The menu had something for everybody, including pizza, and enough well-described options to cause some soul-searching. I took the plunge on a lentil salad to start, following up with monkfish and broad beans, sun-dried tomato etc. The salad was excellent, with enough pomegranate and apple to keep a generous portion interesting all the way through. But the presentation was a little unimaginative – here you go, a bowl of lentils. The monkfish made a much better impression on the plate, vivid green bean puree, deep red tomatoes, and plump white fish. I was looking forward to diving into my edible Italian flag, but at the back of my head was also the thought ‘my fish looks lonely on that big plate, could’ve been a bit more of it for £23’. It was delish, but my first bite was already lukewarm. In a way this sums up what’s wrong with Banca. The attention to detail wasn’t there; the appearance says ‘sophisticated’ but it’s not backed-up by the delivery. This would be OK almost anywhere except Mayfair where if you’re going to promise and charge like a big boy, then you’ve got to roll like a big boy. Rents are too high here to get it wrong for long. On the way out I noticed just one other table occupied, which could explain the effusive welcome…

Les Deux Salons, 40-42 William IV Street, London WC2N 4DD

Les Deux Salons, 40-42 William IV Street, London WC2N 4DD

20/04/2013

www.lesdeuxsalons.co.uk

She said: We were in the Covent Garden area and hungry when I remembered wanting to try Les Deux Salons but hadn’t until now as he never seemed enthusiastic about it. I must have caught him on an off-day as he agreed to dine here. Les Deux Salons is designed as a classic French brasserie – two floors with metro style lighting and brass railings, dark green banquettes and starched table cloths and the obligatory distressed mirrors. A glass ceiling is a central feature of the room. On entering a near empty room we were given a nice table in the centre on the ground floor. The menus and complimentary bread were quick to come but after sitting around for too long, surrounded by waiters nattering to each other and therefore oblivious to our gestures to place our order, he went up and got a waiter to come to our table. Thankfully, the food service was good. I had a beetroot salad which was light and tasty, followed by the fish pie which, for me was a bit thick on mash and light on juicy fish although he liked it. I quickly ordered a side of spinach to cut through the dryness of the fish pie which worked nicely – although the spinach was more salty than I would have liked. We had noticed a nice new cake place up the road so decided to skip dessert.

During the meal more customers arrived creating more of a buzz in this retro, smart room. The ground floor feels more classic and open although upstairs has a nice intimacy to it. In the heart of tourist-land Les Deux Salons is always going to attract more out-of-towners than locals which makes for a different atmosphere although the lack of a pre-theatre menu will take care of one segment of tourists. Les Deux Salons is a pleasant enough place with pleasant enough food and if you choose wisely, reasonable prices at £50 for two courses for two with soft drinks.

He said: push the door & you can skip the Eurostar – the atmosphere here is genuine Paris, including the sometimes indifferent service. A few things on the menu raised the eyebrow: hot dog & chips, and mac & cheese, for example; but hey, this is Convent Garden, and Billy-Bob and Marge need to eat too. Otherwise this is as convincingly ‘Brasserie’ as nearby Balthazar and Zedel. I chose the very tasty soupe du jour, priced at a democratic £2.50, followed by a kind of Gallic fish and chips: pan-fried cod, with mushy peas and potato boulangere. This was delicious but the portion of fish was a little mean, irrespective of collapsing fish stocks. Having resisted going there for so long, I had to admit reluctantly that she was right – Les Deux Salons is a very good bet for the area. I’ll definitely be trying the mac & cheese next.

The Caramel Room, The Berkeley Hotel, Wilton Place, London SW1X 7RL

The Caramel Room, The Berkeley Hotel, Wilton Place, London SW1X 7RL

12/04/2013

www.the-berkeley.co.uk

She said: Mmm, an afternoon of tea and cakes; I was looking forward to this. The Caramel Room is a fairly benign, inoffensive space by the entrance of this Knightsbridge style hotel but the unique afternoon tea certainly makes up for any lack of star-factor of the surrounds. We were seated by a large window at a perfectly set table with a place name inscribed within a cut-out fluorescent pink stiletto. The service was immaculate. We were given a full run-down of the ceremony and delicacies to come. I did struggle to keep a straight face and avoided eye-contact with him when we were shown a brochure of fashion designs upon which the Pret a Portea is modelled; to name but a few: a mouse inspired by a Burberry trench coat and umbrella; a Fendi ankle-boot biscuit; a YSL sponge handbag; and in their words not mine ‘Diane Von Furstenberg pink lady apple mousse and kalamancy cremeux topped with playful interlocking sugar puzzles’.

Our desserts were preceded by an excellent choice of sandwiches and nibbles such as mini falafel and humous, a spoon of marinated tuna, a glass of cold soup all of which were perfectly formed and pleasantly appetising. Having learned from previous afternoon teas, we paced ourselves well and tried not to fill up on the variety of teas on offer. Staff regularly checked and refreshed our tea, savouries and desserts – YES – the ultimate gold star here is that is confirmed to the ‘keep ‘em coming’ school of thought for afternoon tea allowing us to have as many rounds of whatever we wanted whenever we wanted. At £39 per head, afternoon tea at the Berkeley should be on the top 3 of anyone’s list and the novelty factor of the Pret a Portea is actually rather superb…

He said: Afternoon tea, for me, should be either very basic or very posh: a grannyish, chintzy tearoom in a faded seaside town, or the maximum luxury experience of the Savoy (see below). No-one can accuse The Berkley Hotel of being a retiring wallflower: this Knightsbridge stalwart is the first hotel that I can remember charging £15 for a drink, back when that was a lot of money. But Pret-a-Portea is, sadly, tucked into a corner, with far too little space for it to deploy its many charms. And there is a definite disconnect between its bubbly fashion vibe, and the rather dark, and masculine room. The waitress came with the menus, and it was pure David Brent cringe as she explained, at length, the Manolo inspired biscuits and other insane Fashion conceits. I hoped to see coke-addled Edina and Patsy come crashing into this bizarre Sex And the City scene. But Pret-a-Portea scores highly on food (including tasty canapés), enthusiastic service; a little takeaway box of your favourite sweets was a very nice touch. In the end, tea here was actually a fun and pleasant experience, but the concept is a little forced.

Hush, 8 Lancashire Court, Brook Street, London W1S 1EY

Hush, 8 Lancashire Court, Brook Street, London W1S 1EY

www.hush.co.uk

09/04/2013

She said: The mother-in-law was in town and we needed somewhere local. I had wanted to book ‘The Silver Room’ at Hush which is a newly decorated dining space on the first floor but was told it was closed so our table was in the ground floor dining room which is in the standard ‘contemporary’ style you see at so many restaurants these days. I have always had mixed preconceptions of Hush – it looks pretty from the pedestrian courtyard but always seemed a bit affected so I was curious to check out the reality. On arrival, very poker-faced service staff took our coats and seated us at a reasonable table. However, we had to asked at least 5 times for someone to take our cocktail orders, which at £11 a pop you wouldn’t think we’d have to insist on being able to order (after a word with the manager the service improved).

The menu is a mix of ‘European’ food at middle-of-the-range London prices. I went straight into mains after the long cocktail chase and had the cod with spinach, saffron and clam sauce which was actually very good. To follow, despite my fellow diners passing on dessert and coffee, I had a delicious sticky toffee pudding with crème fraiche and my latte arrived closely behind. We receded into ‘chase the bill’ a couple of times before putting down £110 for three people consisting of three cocktails, three mains and one dessert and coffee. On the basis of the food and location I would consider coming back to Hush, maybe to see what the Silver Room is like but would have been more confident with a less indifferent service.

He said: I arrived at Hush right off the plane from a work trip in Germany, having spent the day moaning and groaning through the last spasms of a nasty case of food poisoning. Perhaps not the best conditions for a night out, but it was planned a while ago, and I’m from the pretend-everything-is-ok school of medicine. Still, I played it safe, ordered a stiff drink as a starter (to kill-off any remaining bugs), and followed with the spiced lentils – no formerly-living creatures on my plate that might have caused a relapse. Both were perfectly nice. The main reason to come to Hush, really, is the very picturesque setting, hidden behind Bond Street on a discreet cobbled courtyard – it has a nice approach and out-of-towners will be suitably impressed with your knowledge of all the nooks and crannies. Hush also has a really nice buzzy and dimly lit atmosphere. My only gripe was that service was haphazard; perhaps they were short-staffed, but the door crew was also a little indifferent. Oh, and also, her cod came on an absurdly large plate – I mean, we’re talking stupid large. Hush, with some minor tweaking, could be really good, especially if the staff worked at making the punters feel as special as the ambiance. Incidentally, my number one tip for eating abroad outside of capital cities: don’t order fish on Monday.

Balthazar, 4-6 Russell Street, London WC2E 7BN

Balthazar, 4-6 Russell Street, London WC2E 7BN

www.balthazarlondon.com

01/04/2013

She said: I had been observing Balthazar’s development over the past few months each time I was in Covent Garden with builders and decorators transforming this great corner plot by the market. Balthazar is immediately impressive; vast ceilings, distressed, large mirrors everywhere, pristine table cloths and old-style service staff buzzing around with the array of delights on large trays on their shoulders. The bar is attractive, glistening with various bottles and glasses and the interior has an art-deco feel to it. I had requested a banquette seat when booking which they obliged in a great location in the middle of the room giving us good people-watching opportunities. We were a bit baffled when asked if we would like to order bread when we noticed other tables were being given it automatically and upon checking whether it was complimentary we were presented with a basked of delicious bread options.

The menu offers a wide choice of French-inspired dishes and I started with the goat cheese tart which was very good. To follow I had the lobster black truffle risotto which was a little too fishy and salty but good enough. I ordered the Tart Tatin for dessert but it lacked the sophistication of a true tatin with chunky, chewy apple on a thick base so I swapped with his Chocolate Rocher which was much better. That said, Balthazar offers a great setting and good enough food at okay prices (three courses and coffees for two and one cocktail came in at £78), making it somewhere I would come back to with friends and family alike.

He said: Walking out of Balthazar I overheard a lively Italian tourist telling one of his mates: ‘dis iz da ottesta tabel ina towna, Lettuce a sea iffa we canna geta ina’. The PR bods working for Balthazar clearly earned their crust – the place was barely out of soft-launch and already tourists had it on their radar. Balthazar ticks a lot of boxes: the room has the wow-factor, the location is good (if you don’t mind tourist-land) and the food works: I kicked-off with a kale salad, followed with an ‘eggplant’ sandwich – yes, this French brasserie is actually American – and topped things off with a chocolate rocher. I enjoyed it all, and the knowledge that I had ordered better than she, which is always nice but does mean that she swapped her so-so tarte tatin for my delish rocher. Balthazar also makes their bread on the spot; I confess, dear reader, to a major bread addiction. The killer bread display in the window is what actually made me want to come here first. I also enjoyed the fact that the bloody Mary had no ice in it – the only right way to make it. Things I didn’t like: the service was still very tentative, which you don’t expect from an American-run place; and the coat-check was really badly organized; we, and others were waiting by the door for a good 10 minutes waiting for our things, blocking the way while the girl evidently ran to a very far away place to fetch our things. But, on balance, these niggles can easily be sorted out. And no, Mario didn’t get a table, because Balthazar is a winner, and everybody already knows it.

Tom’s Kitchen, 27 Cale Street, London SW3 3QP

Tom’s Kitchen, 27 Cale Street, London SW3 3QP

www.tomskitchen.co.uk

31/03/2013

She said: After another pointless Saatchi exhibition, we sought out Tom’s Kitchen having eaten in many of his dad’s (Mr Conran’s) eateries. Tucked away on a residential road in Chelsea, the inside of Tom’s is a bright, contemporary space which, as the name says, feels like a big eat-in kitchen and contrasts with is former-pub exterior. Popular with Americans for some reason, the menu was a good choice of British fare but at posh prices. I had a small portion of macaroni cheese and a green salad which were fine and a pricey juice. I’m not sure if restaurants think it’s ‘atmospheric’ to have the sound of fresh coffee being grated all the time but the sound resonated through the restaurant creating more of a pneumatic drill sensation. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a bright, happy space full of bustle but – and this may be my prejudices against the Chelsea set – if felt more like a ‘scene to be seen’ space with prices unnecessarily higher than they should be. £50 for a light lunch seems excessive compared with similar joints I’ve been to.

He said: If Tom flew an American flag above the front door, his kitchen easily could be mistaken for the canteen of the American Embassy. Every table within earshot was packed with Americans. Perhaps it’s because we went at Sunday lunch, a.k.a. brunch time, but the menu must’ve been irresistible to our cousins across the pond: full, as it is, of Yankee classics: blueberry pancakes, crab cakes, mac & cheese, etc. We too indulged, and all of it was very good, if a little pricey. What you’re really paying for, of course, is the bright and breezy space; it hard to believe that this used to be a pub. ‘Good job, guys!’.

Little Social, 5 Pollen Street, London W1S 1NE

Little Social, 5 Pollen Street, London W1S 1NE

www.littlesocial.co.uk

29/03/2013

She said: Having visited the Pollen Street Social a year ago, when we heard a little sister restaurant had opened opposite we couldn’t resist. We were one of the first diners to arrive at Little Social, which is a nostalgic, intimate bistro with lots of dark wood, scene-setting music that created a sense of days gone by, mood lighting and retro framed posters on the wall. We were greeted and served by lots of friendly and attentive staff and you could tell the whole place had that newly-opened shine. I opted for the set menu for the starter and main and chose an a la carte dessert. The food, including the complimentary breads was heavenly – rich flavours and sensible portions. My tuna starter melted in my mouth and a main of ‘roasted gurnard, saffron mash, fennel, Cornish soup, aioli’ was a joy with every bite. I couldn’t resist the ‘Hot chocolate moelleaux, sea salt and almond ice cream’ to end with a hot cup of latte which was perfection. As the time passed, the restaurant became full, including people eating at the bar and the noise resonated around the restaurant making it difficult to hear him across the table – never mind the charming music that I had been enjoying when we first came in, so this probably isn’t the place for a business lunch unless you don’t want to hear what your colleagues have to say. With the prix fixe at £21 for two courses Little Social is a delight although between the two I would favour the big sister across the road.

He said: By contrast to the pared-down modernism of the original Social across the street, Little Social is like walking into Elton John’s closet: lots of colour and texture. But, unlike Elton’s frocks, Little Social is in the best possible taste. The decorative theme here is (kind of) French bistro, except the one that you hardly ever find – the one from your imagination where everything is just about perfect. As every curmudgeon will tell you, it was always better in the past, and Little Social’s retro-contemporary style succeeds instantly in creating that halcyon vibe of always having been there. It’s clear that Little Social was always all about capturing this feeling of cosy familiarity, and so the food itself is actually British; but with Atherton’s usual winning touch, leaving you thinking: `I know all this, but I never knew it could be this good’. The kitchen brings a freshness to these dishes which highlights why some things are classics and don’t go out of style. As a punter you also feel very good about yourself for having resisted the latest thing, like sous-vide wasabi-dusted  kohlrabi consommé, or whatever. My only gripe is that the room is actually very noisy when it’s full of understandably delighted diners. We got there early, possibly first -- those were true halcyon moments.

Banana Tree, 103-109 Wardour Street, London W1F 0UQ

Banana Tree, 103-109 Wardour Street, London W1F 0UQ

16/03/2013

www.bananatree.co.uk

She said: I had spotted this out of the corner of my eye when rushing to the underground one morning after failing to secure standby theatre tickets and thought it was worth popping back for. It was. Banana Tree is an ‘Indochina’ restaurant set in an industrial-style space in the middle of Soho. The menu offers a great range of Asian dishes for every taste. It was difficult choosing and then he noticed the special which allows you to have a main course with a noodle salad, corn cakes, prawn crackers and rice at a great price. I opted for the Seafood Kari which was a mix of tiger prawns, tilapia fish fillets and

fishcakes in a Malaysian red curry paste. The food was excellent, service efficient, setting modern-trendy but not in a self-conscious way and including drinks and him needing to have two main courses, a reasonable £40 in total. Will definitely be back and with 5 other London locations it should be easy to find the opportunity.

He said: if you wade through the mist of time, do you remember the first time you had a Wagamama? Well that’s the excitement I felt at Banana Tree. I wanted to try absolutely everything, it all seemed so cheap, and I got to have it right here in a stylish room in the middle of Soho, instead of on a paper plate at some delicious but dangerous joint (think e-coli Russian roulette) at the dodgy end of Zone 2. I confess that the décor is what kept me from going in the first couple of times I walked passed: it all seemed so self-consciously urban and cool. But the urban/oriental thing actually works once you’re tucking in, with a glass of Malay spice tea in one hand. I usually avoid vegan, but this seemed like the place to try, and I’m very glad I did; good eating and good karma. We ordered more than we could eat, and it all came in at just under £40 for two including service. I’m a sucker for good food at good prices, and can’t wait to go back, hopefully today!

Roast, The Floral Hall, Stoney Street, London SE1 1TL

Roast, The Floral Hall, Stoney Street, London SE1 1TL

09/03/2013

www.roast-restaurant.com

She said: After wondering around the all-absorbing Borough Market and partaking in a little too much food sampling, we caught the lift in the market up to Roast. As the lift doors open and you pass the narrow reception area you enter a vast open contemporary dining space with a beautiful, high glassed roof and windows overlooking the bustle of the market below. It is definitely worth requesting a table by a window as we were seated in a perfect corner table with windows on two sides which allowed us to truly appreciate the fantastic architecture of the iconic market and undertake some great people watching. The menu offered a good range of British cooking and I opted for a fillet of Gunard which was small for the price and I was glad I also ordered a side of coleslaw. The chocolate pudding was delicious and the test of my latte arriving at the same time as desert was good enough. At £100 for two courses for two people and soft drinks, Roast is at the higher-end of the price-scale but offers a unique setting and some decent enough food.

He said: I confess that I was totally distracted and can’t really remember the food that well: she’d had the foresight to book the best table in the house, by the corner window overlooking Borough Market. It’s not the Pyramids, but what a setting! I grew up on the continent, and for as long as I can remember weekends are associated with food markets – Saturday for the local one, where the circus also sets up in the autumn, sometimes with a high-wire motorcycle act; Sunday for the enormous one near the train station where the fun fair beds down for the whole summer. For me the rhythm of the rows of stacked produce, the colours, the smells and the buzz of the crowd is total catnip. If Whiskas came on a plate I probably wouldn’t have noticed. As it was, I got salmon, which I liked but which, at £23 a plate is expensive even by London standard for a far-from-extinct species. Since I’m on the confessional tip, I admit that, for once, the menu included lots of vegetarian options, all of which I ignored although they actually were much better value and which, judging by the standard of cooking, would have been very good choices. My sticky date pudding was a real winner, as confirmed by the she-buzzard’s spoon swooping down on my plate with alarming frequency. When will she learn that you don’t have to order chocolate just because it’s on the menu? To sum up, ladies and gentlemen of the jury, Roast is a unique proposition if you’re by the right windows; otherwise you could be at any number of very good establishments.

Coya, 118 Piccadilly, London W1J 7NW

Coya, 118 Piccadilly, London W1J 7NW

02/03/2013

www.coyarestaurant.com

She said: He was treating me to a pre-birthday surprise and exceptionally uncovered a chic, romantic, eclectically-decorated, trendy South American restaurant that I knew nothing about. In the basement of a period building on Piccadilly, Coya serves up mostly tapas-style dishes that are perfectly flavoured with each leaving you wanting more. We shared five such dishes including a seabass cerviche, mushroom and monkfish anticuchos and the fish cazuela – all magnificent.  The service at Coya was friendly and attentive and this is clearly a professional Mayfair outfit in a stylish setting whilst managing to retain a casual atmosphere. At almost £100 for food plus two cocktails its an occasion restaurant for us but one that is worth finding an occasion for.

He said: Hyde Park Corner is, I imagine, like that No Man’s Land between North and South Korea, or Indian and Pakistani Kashmir – nice on either side but not somewhere you go to specifically. You normally just run through this giant traffic junction, unless you’re taking (way) out-of-towners to Hard Rock Café. But persevere, and walk down into Coya and savour some of that old school Mayfair glamour. Even armed with the receipt I won’t pretend that I can remember what everything was called. But it was exciting. And not just because of the novelty – there was a genuine freshness and buzz to every one of the many small plates brought out of this bang-on kitchen. And the drinks and the décor were both bred to win. With enough cash to splash this would be a hell of a place for a bash.

Sushisamba, Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate, London EC2N 4AY

Sushisamba, Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate, London EC2N 4AY

12/01/13

http://sushisamba.com/location/london

She said: I needed a place for a super special occasion so opted for this recent addition to the 'impress' category of London dining and impress it did. SushiSamba is situated on the 38th floor of a city skyscraper with a dedicated lift that blasts you up as you stare out through the glass at the magnificent London skyline. You then enter a space of blonde wood and colourful lights and ceiling ornamentation which is a small bar space that winds into a vast open dining space with windows all around and a warmth and excitement set off by the furnishings inside. I had asked for a good table and was assured we had the best as we were seated overlooking breathtaking scenery beyond an outdoor terrace which, if it wasn't freezing outside, would be THE prime location to be (roll on summer).  Service was friendly and we were brought complimentary fizz to celebrate our special occasion which was a lovely gesture and set the standard for the rest of the meal which exceeded expectations. The menu is mostly a mix of tapas style dishes, offering South American and Japanese cuisine. Let's be clear, the prices here are special occasion or expense account prices (or for people with offshore accounts) but the quality of food, service and setting make it damn well worth it. We ordered three tapas style dishes and something from the 'large' dishes section (though in hindsight substituting this for more tapas would be better). The food was exquisite. The yellowtail taquitos were full of flavour as was the salmon ceviche. The corn tamales was okay as was the main dish of moqueca which was a sort of paella, I think I liked them more than he. The deserts were unique - I went for a chilli cholocate dish which looked beautiful and tasted heavenly but I felt the chilli! The tea could have been a bit more generous though I loved my espresso-like martini.  For a Saturday lunch the fact that the place was full when the 'city of london' is closed is a testament to just how good it is. At about £60+ per head no one seemed to be wincing and I see this place growing in success. What I loved is how unpretentious it was. It could easily have gone that route but staff were friendly, diners were dressed smart casual and we were able to take our time over three hours without feeling we were being hurried (so tired of restaurants saying 'we need the table back in 90 minutes'); folks, take a leaf out of this place which I hope to return to without needing a special occasion as an excuse...

He said: We all know it: eating out is as much about the place as it is about the food. Well, Captain Hook could count on one hand the number of restaurants in London with the wow factor of Sushisamba. It starts with getting there: step into the outdoors glass lift, strap a blindfold on anyone with vertigo, and push the ‘38’ button. Wow. None of London’s other high-rise restaurants (Paramount, Rhodes24, etc) can deliver that right now. The narrow hallway connecting the lift to the restaurant reels you in a bit, to set up another `Wow’ moment as you walk into the vast, glazed dining room, all its office-tower edges softened by a canopy consisting of a huge Yves Tanguy-style fishing net supported by bamboo poles. I can only describe the effect as `under-the-sea/meets above-the-clouds/meets Blade Runner’. By this point expectations are sky-high, but the food rises to the challenge.  The idea here is South American Japanese. It’s one of those combinations that sounds crazy at first, but then makes perfect sense. Can you name anywhere else in town that does that? Me neither. Yes, London is in the middle of ceviche fever, and yes Nobu spent some time in Peru; but nowhere else in London will you get your yellowtail ceviche served in crispy taquitos, overlooking the Gherkin, St Paul’s and everything else. I would happily have those for starter, main and desert. OK, OK, I might have another one of those killer cocktails for desert. I probably don’t need to tell you that this kind of unique doesn’t come cheap, though for me it was free. She’d booked the place for a special occasion, and definitely hit a home run with Sushisamba.

Tonkotsu, 63 Dean Street, London W1D 4QG

Tonkotsu, 63 Dean Street, London W1D 4QG

05/01/13

www.tonkotsu.co.uk

She said: I was caught in a rare mood for some noodles and so we headed to the new ‘trendy’ Tonkotsu which had been receiving good reviews. It’s a small restaurant in Soho, basic in design with shared tables. No great initial impression other that this place will be about the food. But alas, the rave was greater than the reality. I ordered a mushroom miso (the only vegetarian main dish on a very small menu) which took forever to come – maybe 30 minutes for a bowl of noodles…We also shared some mushroom Gyoza which he was upset about being all stuck together (five clumps) but which I found tasty if oily; the prawn in batter was good but waiting so long for my food increased expectations which – for the price (almost £40 for two with one soft drink) was not met. I would suggest opting for the cheaper ramen chains which may not be as refined in the ‘quality’ of their miso broth but to be honest – unless you were a ramen connoisseur, you would not know the difference.

He said: The first thing that strikes you about Tonkotsu is the very pleasant smell of the rich stock bubbling away – definitely a good omen for a ramen joint. The space is cosy and done-up in a modern version of the familiar Japanese ‘wood everywhere’ décor. All very authentic. I was half expecting that incomprehensible greeting often shouted at you in Japanese restaurants when you walk in. The menu is very short: three types of ramen, and a handful of sides. We both went for the veggie ramen, and gyoza and prawn katsu. The sides were unremarkable and I would avoid them next time, but the ramen was delicious – the mushroom/miso stock had a depth of flavour that’s really scarce and a wonderful change from the thin and bland norm. Having said that more vegetables would have been nice to add greater texture and substance. I might go back in a while, when they’ve sorted out some of the glitches with the service and sides; meanwhile the search for the ultimate London ramen joint continues. There are not many covers, so plan on eating American style (ie early) if you don’t want to queue. 

Simpsons-in-the-Strand, 100 Strand, London WC2R 0EW

Simpsons-in-the-Strand, 100 Strand, London WC2R 0EW

23/12/2012

www.simpsonsinthestrand.co.uk

She said: This British eatery and part of The Savoy Hotel, has been around for over 170 years. Originally a chess and coffee house, the ‘Grand Divan’ dining room serves as a trip back in time with oak panelled walls, chandeliers, high, stuccoed ceilings and a piano playing American classics (although the depressing song from ‘Les Parapluies de Cherbourg’ was playing when we were seated). Waiters are dressed in ‘proper’ waiting attire and tables are laid exquisitely. Cheekily I discovered after that there is a set menu but you need to know to ask for this…So we chose off the a la carte. I opted for an Ocean Trout with came with a lobster sauce on lobster mash; the side of spinach I ordered was a good accompaniment. As we did not order starters we were given an amuse bouche which was a nice touch. My trout was soft and juicy and the sauce complimented it perfectly. I created some room in my stomach for pudding and opted for the chocolate mousse with stewed cherries. This pudding was delicious – high quality chocolate all the way through with bitter-sweet cherries that offset the chocolate taste perfectly. Alongside I had a piping hot latte – just the way I like it, which also came with a plate of various biscuits. Simpsons-in-the-Strand is an institution that I recommend making time for. With pre-theatre menus also on offer there’s plenty of variety in choice and price and it serves as a timeless escape from the chaos of London.

He said: Hands up if, like me, you occasionally get bored by the endless striving for novelty and the Sisyphean race to win the gold medal in `Cool’. Simpsons is the perfect antidote. For the past fifteen years I’ve lived in London just the name was a turn off, enough to quicken my step walking past countless times without ever looking in. What a mistake! The fact that it has barely changed in the 100+ years it’s been opened is exactly what’s so appealing, so comforting about this place. The room is cathedral-like, vast, double-height, wood-panelled, deep upholstered booths line both sides, chefs criss-cross it pushing roast trolleys about, waiters uniformed in various styles based on seniority, etc. The food is pure comfort, the only concession to tradition made for vegetarians (stuffed Romano pepper with courgette flowers). You are guaranteed to get echoes of Jeeves and Wooster, and all sorts of connotations of England of Yore. On a Sunday the piano player is in the corner bashing out all the guilty pleasures. It’s just wonderful. As you’d expect there are a lot of older gentlemen wearing club ties, but on a second visit I happily saw that the booth next to ours was filled by Bright Young Things. Even if, as perhaps they did, you go to indulge some knowing irony, you will walk out delighted by the tradition. A bit like watching Kate and Wills get married on the telly.  

Ping, 180 Earl’s Court Road, London SW5 9QG

Ping, 180 Earl’s Court Road, London SW5 9QG

28/11/2012

www.weloveping.com

She said: Having been to Bounce a few weeks earlier this would always be compared in its ping pong/dining/drinking experience. On first impressions there was some unnecessary ‘cool’ ticks like bouncers at the door and over-trendy waiting staff but once we were seated in Ping – a more casual trend-image-seeking versions of Bounce, it was actually a rather enjoyable experience. The Noci E Pera Pizza I went for was very good and complimented nicely by my Espresso Martini and the bonus here is that the ping pong is free to play, though there are fewer tables than Bounce and they are close together. My ping pong had improved since Bounce which helped the whole experience and I wouldn’t let the bouncer and initial club-like feel put you off this otherwise fun, alternative night out – also cheaper than Ping at £30 for two this time including alcohol!

He said: Having moaned that Bounce was pricey [see below], we then found Ping on the opposite side of town. It’s free to play, and the food and drinks are cheaper. She will confirm that I never admit I’m wrong but, in this instance, I guess it’s not all about price. There’s no question that Bounce is the true temple to table tennis. Ping is more of a trendy bar with tables, but the formula still works. And there’s something about the tables being fewer and much closer together that actually makes it more social, and more likely that you’ll end up hanging-out with a bunch of new people. Unless you’re Type A and go postal with all the balls from other tables interfering with your game. Stick with Bounce if you want to deploy your killer volley six foot back from the table.

Hawksmoor, 5A Air Street, London W1J 0AD

Hawksmoor, 5A Air Street, London W1J 0AD

24/11/2012

www.thehawksmoor.com/airstreet

She said: I had previously known about Hawksmoor as a strictly meat-eater’s domain so when I heard that this new West End opening also specialised in fish I wanted to see what the whole Hawksmoor buzz was about. Sitting above Regent Street in a long horizontal Art Deco dining space, entered through an easy-to-miss side door on Air Street, Hawksmoor felt elegant, comfortable and smart. We were seated in a u-shaped banquette near the middle of the room so could survey the room and its diners comfortably. Service was attentive without being fussy. I went for the set menu at £25 for three courses. I had the shrimps on toast to start which was a juicy, garlic soaked concoction, followed by a whole Royal bream with a side of mushrooms which again was cooked to perfection and melted in the mouth. To finish I had the lemon tart which was perfect but also dug into his peanut butter shortbread with salted caramel ice cream which he ordered as my back-up! Overall I enjoyed the Hawksmoor experience. I thought the food, service and setting was good but it needs to be busy to have an atmosphere otherwise it could feel a little soulless and cold. I would certainly come back.

He said: What I like most about Hawksmoor is the back-to-basics feel to it; not to the space, which is distinctly opulent in that pared-back art deco way, but to the food. There is no over-elaboration; the menu is short, and every dish focused on simplicity, allowing each of the few ingredients involved to sing out. So my Caesar salad was the classic, without the modern bells and whistles, and my trout was visibly a trout, eyes and all, for me to hack away at. My only disappointment on the food front was stale/tough croutons in the salad, which is a major issue in a dish of just four ingredients (plus dressing). Service was easy-going but efficient, in keeping with the formula. For me the only false note was in the interior; I am a big sucker for art deco so, in theory, I should have loved this place, but the fluorescent light just killed the vibe. Before writing me off as a ponce you just go see for yourself. Like me you’ll probably walk away thinking ‘that was nice’, but with so many great restaurants in London it might be a while before a repeat visit. Somehow this recent opening is already on the map for tourists, so make sure to book.

Bounce, 121 Holborn, London, EC1N 2TD

Bounce, 121 Holborn, London, EC1N 2TD

17/11/2012

www.bouncelondon.com

She said: An intriguing place anonymously situated in the basement of a building along Holborn, Bounce is a ping pong heaven. You can rent a ping pong table for 30 minutes or longer in a trendy, club-like setting with a restaurant and bar alongside. We had our choice of tables in the chic, darkly lit restaurant which overlooks the dozen or so ping pong tables. I ordered the Wild mushroom pizza which was delicious – good size, garlic- soaked mushrooms in a truffle oil; the side salad was a let down – a few measly leaves on a quarter plate but for something different, this ping pong, eating-drinking combo is a fun, smart and alternative London dining/entertainment option. The bill for two mains and non-alcoholic drinks came to £44. Not the cheapest pizza on the block but worth the experience.

He said: this is another winner from the guys behind All Star Lanes. In many ways it’s an identical proposition, but with wiff-waff instead of bowling. According to the Bounce PR machine, the place is sited in the very spot where the noble sport was invented so, if you’re so inclined, descending the steps into this vast basement space can have a pilgrimage vibe to it. Once you get passed the table-booking process, a little clunky on our visit, you are confronted by the really awesome sight and sound of a dozen or so tables in a winning modern-retro-Americana style, with a solid mix of mainly post-millennial music filling the space (dj at weekends); the dining area is at mezzanine level up a few steps at the back, giving a great view over the whole scene. He and She have an 18-year long Pong rivalry, so we charged-up on carbs (the menu is mainly nice thin-crust pizza) ahead of the big duel. I loved the whole thing, the only thing I can fault really is the pricing. I wish it was a little cheaper and I’d be there all the time. Clearly I’m in a tight-fisted minority – this place is a huge hit already. Go: you will love it too.

Aubaine, 31 Dover Street, London W1A 4ND

Aubaine, 31 Dover Street, London W1S 4ND

13/11/2012

www.aubaine.co.uk

She said: I had noticed this new addition to Mayfair and having never been to the Aubaine chain which had caught my eye in other parts of town (Chelsea, West End) I thought it was time to give it a go. I was not disappointed. This is a classy joint with a sophisticated yet laid back French café feel with food to match. The service was attentive and in fact when they seated he and I separately at separate tables (not having realised we were one party having arrived at different times) they took our deserts off the bill!

I opted for main and desert this time with my main being a goats cheese tart which was the right balance of all things, followed by a ‘Dulce’ tart which I had chosen from a plate of amazing looking options presented by the waiter at my table. I really enjoyed the whole dining experience and would recommend Aubaine equally for a romantic meal, business deal or ladies lunch. The total bill came to £53 for two courses plus coffee. About what you would expect to pay for the location.

He said: I always thought of Aubaine as a small-plate type of place, so I really had no expectations about this one. And Aubaine’s frontage takes-up a tiny patch of Dover Street, so I certainly wasn’t prepared for the surprisingly large and comfortable dining room at the back. Maybe this is why I like this restaurant so much – it was all so unexpected. The food was French-bistro-meets-Ottolenghi: fresh, simple, light and tasty. Service was swift and attentive. The pricing was spot-on. If it was a car this restaurant would be a Volvo: top quality and not time wasted on flash. In aspirational Mayfair there’s really not much like Aubaine. This is a great place for a laid-back meeting,  business or otherwise. I’m looking forward to going again.

Bombay Palace, 50 Connaught Street, London W2 2AA

Bombay Palace, 50 Connaught Street, London W2 2AA

14/10/2012

http://www.bombay-palace.co.uk

She said: Following a refurbishment we wanted to see whether this Hyde Park Indian was any good. Situated on the corner of Hyde Park Gardens under a newly developed residential block, Bombay Palace can be easy to miss. The refurb has seen a more contemporary design with marble floor and dark furniture in a cool, calming room. We were seated at banquettes at the edge of the room and were the first to arrive for lunch but the place quickly filled up with what seemed like mostly locals.

Being where it is, this is not your local, cheap and cheerful curry house – so though the menu was extensive (and we were immediately disappointed to be told what we were ordering was not available) the prices are higher than they should be. I did enjoy my food – a mix of delicious Indian vegetables with rice but to me, Indian food is not something that improves the more money you pay so at £47 for two vegetarians (with no alcohol) this is a pricey affair not justified by location. One for corporates I would say.

He said: It’s definitely fair to say that Bombay Palace is an institution. Since it first opened years ago, branches have sprung-up all over the world. But, equally, others since then (e.g. Cinnamon Kitchen) have shown that upmarket Indian is about more than just high prices. If India Palace reminds you of mummy-ji’s  cooking, or of your first experience of ‘proper’ Indian food, then you’ll love it. For me if you moved it from W1 to E2 it would probably go out of business if it didn’t reel-back the prices big-time. The cooking is fine if you live nearby and don’t fancy walking to Roti Chai, or cabbing it to others, but anyone who loves Indian food with know many better options.

Lima, 31 Rathbone Place, London W1T 1JH

Lima, 31 Rathbone Place, London W1T 1JH

03/09/2012

www.limalondon.com

She said: Peruvian, why not. This place is easy to miss tucked away near the post office sorting office. You enter a bar-like narrow area but this stylish South American restaurant opens up into a lovely sky-lit contemporary dining area. There’s a choice of a good value set menu (three courses for £20) or a la carte. As I was craving ceviche which was not on the set menu I went for the ‘sea bream ceviche with white tiger’s milk, sweet onion skin and inca corn’ – a fancy description set expectations which were surpassed. Zesty, juice flavours accompanied by some corn nuts were the perfect entrée. I followed this with a halibut and corn fritter like concoction which again did not disappoint; original flavours and healthy but not huge portions. If I hadn’t filled up on fruity breads and a very strong pisto bloody maria I would have made it to desert but more reason to come back. Service was relaxed but friendly and the fellow diners were equally relaxed and a mix of well-heeled older couples and oddly younger Japanese student-types. The a la carte came to £68 – including alcohol. Would definitely come back but probably going for the set menu second time around.

He said: eating here is a really refreshing, sensory experience. The space is intimate (ie small) but decorated to great effect in a fairly neutral beige and grey palette highlighted by flashes of colour from the glass-wear, cushions, etc, and an abstract mural on the back wall. Very stylish. When the food arrives you realize that the room actually works as a canvas against which the gorgeously presented food can stand out. Peruvian cooking is fairly new in London, so there’s a certain old-school excitement to ordering foods that include lots of ingredients you can’t quite place, and flavours you can’t quite imagine. Like when galangal and kholrabi were novelties, back in the days. Soon we’ll all be blasé about tiger’s milk and huacatay. I devoured my tiradito and my delicious vegetarian stew which included half a dozen things I’d never eaten before. Prices are at the higher end, starters and mains averaging at £ 8 and £20, but it’s worth it. Lima is fantastic, I can’t wait to go back.

The Thomas Cubitt, 44 Elizabeth Street, London SW1W 9PA

The Thomas Cubitt, 44 Elizabeth Street, London SW1W 9PA

02/09/2012

http://www.thethomascubitt.co.uk/

She said: I wanted a ‘pub lunch’ so we hit this upmarket gastro joint in Belgravia. There’s a busy, noisy (or atmospheric depending on your viewpoint) downstairs dining area but we went for the calm, smart dining space upstairs which was more intimate with portraits of fish on the walls. The menu offers a good selection of various pub dishes so I went for the fish pie which came with a salad. As fish pies go it was good but fish was sacrificed for more potato topping than was needed. Still I cleared my plate. He ordered a nice fruit juice cocktail but had rushed me in my drinks order so I made him have mine while I drank a lovely apple, mint and pear juice. Given the number of bakeries in the area we didn’t stay for desert although they did look good. Thomas Cubitt is part of a wider group of Gastro pubs in the area (we’ve previously reviewed Orange) and offers smart but relaxed dining at reasonable prices. A good choice if you’re on the lookout for some gastro-‘pub’ food.

He said: In case you’re wondering it’s pronounced Q-bit (I asked). I’m glad I didn’t bet on that because I would have guessed the other way. This gastro-pub is very much in the mould of all the others owned by the same group (The Grazing Goat, The Orange, etc), but the emphasis is much more on `gastro’ than `pub’. If there’s a line between gastro-pub and informal, noisy English restaurant, then the Cubitt is pretty damn close to it. It’s very nice, just like the others, though I much prefer The Goat.  I’m not sure there’s much that distinguishes this from any other good gastro, other than that it’s in Belgravia. Go if you’re in the neighbourhood, otherwise I’m pretty sure you’ll have something similar near you.

Honey and Co, 25a Warren Street, London W1T 5LZ

Honey and Co, 25a Warren Street, London W1T 5LZ
18/08/2012
http://honeyandco.co.uk/

She said... I was in the mood for some middle eastern food and had read about a little restaurant in Warren Street run by former chefs of restaurants I have enjoyed so off we went. At the unassuming end of Warren Street, this little café/restaurant has a certain charm with homely cakes on the counter and jars of various foods on shelves. The changing menu was well catered for vegetarians with a number of mouth watering dishes. The friendly staff and chef made us feel very welcome and we ordered ambitiously as one often does on an empty stomach. We waited in anticipation...and waited…and waited…and then watched numerous customers who had arrived after us receive their food so we chased ours up then waited…and waited…after chasing again we were presented with 4 of the six mezze dishes we ordered which included a tomato salad, falafel and the highlight – a heavenly fig salad with soft goats cheese that melted in the mouth; it may sound like nothing to read but it really was perfection on a plate. After we finished, the fifth dish arrived – a courgette and crispy rice creation which was okay. It’s only when we got home that we realised our sixth dish never arrived but we had still paid for it thanks to the hand written, illegiblebill. Each dish averaged at around the £7 mark which was reasonable and the food is definitely worth the visit. It’s a shame that the friendly team just weren’t on the ball when it came to service (and remembering your order) – especially in a restaurant of around just 20 covers. They’d been open for 11 weeks when we visited so it really should be past those teething issues. If they can get that bit together, it’ll be a fantastic place for good food with a good vibe.

He said... The Euston road is the busiest road in London, and probably one of the most polluted, judging by how many air-quality monitoring stations are dotted along it. But just one road over is Warren Street, and Honey and Co where you can find some of London's healthiest and freshest food. And it really is all about the food here; the space is small and lo-fi but clean and inviting. The cooking is of the Mediterranean stripe made popular by Ottolenghi in the last few years, and here it's even less fussy, if that's possible, and stripped down to dishes that each allow its few, superfresh ingredients to sing out. For me the outstanding dish was the salad of figs with soft goat's cheese and pistachios. I cannot imagine ever having a better one. The tomato salad also obviously used top notch toms, and demonstrated the same passion in the kitchen for cooking with the best that's available at the time. We ordered Imam Bayaldi which, sadly, never came - the dish, a real classic of the region, translates roughly as 'the imam fainted', which is what he did when he tasted how good it was. I'm sure Honey and Co's interpretation would have been as legendary, but I only noticed the oversight after we left. Service was more chaotic than you would expect for such a small place, and the type of cuisine: in the Middle East restaurant service is one of the few things done with efficiency that would be the envy even of a German car factory. Lunch for two came to £40 including a delicious rose flavoured iced tea and more food than you can remember. This will definitely become a regular, especially if the breakneck pace of restaurant openings in London slows down a touch.

Brasserie Blanc, 35 The Market, Covent Garden, London WC2E 8RF

Brasserie Blanc, 35 The Market, Covent Garden, London WC2E 8RF
17/08/2012
http://www.brasserieblanc.com/

She said… I heard that Monsieur Blanc had taken over the space where Chez Gerard used to be in Covent Garden market. I had never visited the previous space as I was fundamentally opposed to their charging a ‘cover price’ but since this was no longer in place and I was curious about the Blanc chain of restaurants, I thought the restaurant atop the market was a good one to try. Alas, expectations fell short. The room itself is pleasant although the outdoor terrace is probably the place to be on a pleasant day. The menu was promising with a wide selection of dishes to suit most palates. And the prices were what you think you should be paying but never do in such a place. I went for the set menu which offered two courses £14.99. I started with a leek, potato and egg salad which was tasteless and stodgy. I followed this with a gruyere and onion tart. With this being a French brasserie I was expecting a light, thin pastry base with juicy caramelised onions and a subtle creamy cheese. Instead, a thick quiche-like concoction which looked like it had been reheated. Again, stodgy and flavourless. I had been planning to have desert but decided to cut my losses and went with him to a new bakery on Chandos Street. I don’t know if the location means the tourist factor is in play (i.e. food for people you’ll never see again so screw quality) but I would have expected more from the Blanc brand.

He said… If no one had told you that Blanc had taken over this place from Gerard then you would never have know the difference.  Both are functional and nice enough, and priced well. But if a sudden craving for good, affordable French food came over you, then this would not be the first place you'd think of; for that see Zedel, below. The setting is pretty nice though, as it's on the upper level of Covent Garden, overlooking the opera house. The terrace space has got to be one of the best in London; I'm not too sure about the part that's glazed, which can feel like a greenhouse. I enjoyed lunch (the company was good) but the Blanc name does raise expectations. For instance, my pea soup made a good first impression, but I got bored with the too-thick, samey texture, and found myself wishing that the portion was smaller, which really doesn't happen often these days. But for £15 for two courses you really can't grumble. And if you avoid the weekends, and its swarms of day trippers, then Covent Garden is actually a nice, convenient place to meet for a sneaky, extended lunch on a sunny day.

Brasserie Zedel, 20 Sherwood Street, London W1F 7ED

Brasserie Zedel, 20 Sherwood Street, London W1F 7ED
09/08/2012
http://www.brasseriezedel.com/

She said… I visited this location many years ago when it was the Atlantic Bar and Grill so was intrigued to hear of it’s reopening as a French brasserie by the folk behind the Delaunay and Wolseley. The initial descent down to the basement is a bit off-putting, especially as on our arrival there was no sign of life upstairs and we guessed our way down the stairs to the restaurant lobby but everything changed when we entered the brasserie. The dining room is a stunning space with backlit stained-glass windows giving the impression of sunlight shining in, high ceilings, gold-leafed relief on towering columns and art-deco features such ceiling with its mix of frosted glass, and brown-gold light fittings. The layout is quintessential brasserie style with banquettes and chairs and starched table cloths in an open plan setting, with an eye-catching bar along one side and a charming boulangerie with ‘designer’  bread in a corner, complete with chef wearing large, pointy hat. What is a wonderful contrast to this glitz is the highly affordable menu which is packed with lots of choice. My starter remoulade for example was only £2.95 and yet a generous portion was presented. Many of the main courses are around the £10 mark (there is even a separate vegetarian menu where mains are below this price). We went for the sauerkraut with seafood which was for two people since it was a departure from the usual. A massive platter arrived which could easily feed four and alongside the picked cabbage contained salmon, haddock, prawns and seafood which I has asked them to hold off on but they forgot. There were also boiled potatoes and it all sat in a creamy sauce. It was delicious and despite it not looking like we’d eaten given the amount left in the platter after trying to ingest as much as possible, the drawback was that I had no room for the desserts I had been eyeing on the menu (which  again were a steal at around the £3.50 mark). We were so impressed by the setting, food, prices and service (good waiter to customer ratio) as well as a buzzy atmosphere of fellow diners that we are going to come back to celebrate mum’s birthday in a few weeks.

He said… This one is a winner. Since going with ‘she’, I have already been back once, and we're booked again for a lunch with the in-laws. That probably tells you all you need to know, but I'm guessing that a two-line review is not what you're looking for. Maybe you know this, but Zedel is on the site of the old Atlantic, a legend on the 90s London scene. As you walk down the stairs you see that a lot of the Deco design has been kept (it must be listed) even though it doesn't quite work with the turn-of-the-century vibe of the main room. I also remember the same strange, stale smell which the Atlantic stairway had; this is not the nicest opening to a meal, but I guess unavoidable being so far under ground, and not an issue once you reach the well-ventilated main room. This definitely has the wow factor - mainly because you don't expect such a large, opulent space so deep down, and because you do get the feeling of having been transported both in place and time. For me, it all had a strong, really pleasant echo of going out to eat when I was a kid in Brussels. Maybe it was the starter (celeriac remoulade) and the main (a seafood sauerkraut) but mainly it was the unfussy, accomplished professionalism of it all, which reminded me of that time when food was food, taken seriously but not a religion. Zedel pushes all my buttons:  my favourite restaurants have a distinctive vibe, and serve well-prepared food that doesn't necessarily rewrite all the rules, at a friendly price. Zedel ticks all the boxes, especially on the value front: though I don't mind spending money, I'm really a cheapskate at heart. Where else in Westminster can you get a starter for £3.50? I simply could not believe it, and had to ask the waiter if the pricing was introductory (it's not). This place is guaranteed to be full at every service, but luckily there's a good allocation for walk-ins. I can't wait to go again and again and work my way through the menu. By the way, Deco fans be sure to  grab a martini or negroni in the amazingly authentic American Bar; and night birds be sure to check out some of the acts in the cabaret.